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New curbar problems (Read 1628 times)

Sloper

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New curbar problems
April 04, 2008, 05:04:38 pm
OK so let the bitching, retro claiming and grade debate commence.

http://ringo.com/photos/photo.html?photoId=260647850
There are, I think, from what I can make out of the draft script for Curbar a couple of new routes/problems on this little buttress.

I climbed the left hand side of the wall via a long reach for me at about Font 5a, the centre of the wall trending right at about E3 6b. (both climbed today)

The Nose from the left at about E1 5a and direct at about E1 5b, the corner grove at about HS 4a and the short wall to the right at about Font 4ish. (climbed with the arête spotted by  Lee Meadows a couple of weeks ago)

This is I think the arête mentioned in the draft of the script and goes at about Font 4+
http://ringo.com/photos/photo.html?photoId=260647797

I also repeated the problem that goes from a sitter to mantle the middle of the brain traverse at about font 5+ (I first did this about 10 years ago but never thought about it) and repeated Early Morning day E1 6b which to be honest felt a good deal harder than V4 but there you go.

Remember grades can go down as well as up.   Your health is at risk if you do not keep holding on.  Climbing is regulated by the like we give a fuck authority.
« Last Edit: April 04, 2008, 05:10:31 pm by Sloper, Reason: technical fcukwittery »

 

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