[ouch]

  110 quid is a lot of money for shoes

 

[robertostallioni]

surely it's easier to climb harder when your wallet that much lighter?

[Drew]

110 quid is a lot of money for shoes

How many people do you see in Solutions? In the pics on the quality pics threads there are quite a few. It's only £10 more than them. Oh and if you happen to be on holiday in the States... $135 suggested price. £67.86 by my reckoning.

[dave]

How many people do you see in Solutions?

Personally speaking, in the flesh, none.

If you're seeing photos of sponsored climbers wearign any particular shoe, i'd pay no attention to it, take it out of the equation. The biggest proof-in-the-pudding indicator for rockshows is what people who have to pay for theit boots and are getting up stuff use.

[manbehindthewires]

How many people do you see in Solutions?

Personally speaking, in the flesh, none.

If you're seeing photos of sponsored climbers wearign any particular shoe, i'd pay no attention to it, take it out of the equation. The biggest proof-in-the-pudding indicator for rockshows is what people who have to pay for theit boots and are getting up stuff use.

i agree, getting-up-stuffability is what i look for in a shoe

does anyone know of any reviews of that lace system? i read about them in Climber but i'd like to hear an "after 3 weeks of aggressive, wet weather abuse......" opinion on them

[Drew]

If you're seeing photos of sponsored climbers wearign any particular shoe, i'd pay no attention to it, take it out of the equation. The biggest proof-in-the-pudding indicator for rockshows is what people who have to pay for theit boots and are getting up stuff use.

I'm not just talking about sponsored heroes, I really do mean Joe Public (I would say Average Joe, but average Joe will be happy with £70 boots, he won't want extra special boots to help him get to the next grade). There aren't that many sponsored heroes, certainly not in the UK (Chris Davies, I seem to think Ioan Doyle... anyone else?)

does anyone know of any reviews of that lace system? i read about them in Climber but i'd like to hear an "after 3 weeks of aggressive, wet weather abuse......" opinion on them

What shoes are you talking about there? The Solutions still? Or are we back to the Scarpas?

[manbehindthewires]

ive only been looking for the scarpas, but either. i'm just interested in how useful the lace system is.

i'm looking for some all rounders for the gym and they sound like a good idea

[Zods Beard]

Surely if your heel doesn't fit in snugly, no matter how tight you pull those straps they'll still be a dead space? Seems like a gimmick to me.

[Drew]

Surely if your heel doesn't fit in snugly, no matter how tight you pull those straps they'll still be a dead space? Seems like a gimmick to me.

Word. It's just going to ram your toes further into the front, and move your heel further away from the heel cup. I think it's a total waste of time. However I'm just going off the picture, and description.

ive only been looking for the scarpas, but either. i'm just interested in how useful the lace system is.

i'm looking for some all rounders for the gym and they sound like a good idea

I'd personally suggest not bothering with decent shoes for indoor climbing (unless you really want to be able to climb better indoors). Poor shoes will force you to pull harder, thus make you stronger. And it's damn hard to learn real technique indoors. Have some durable, not-amazing shoes for indoor training, and then the best fitting shoes you can find for outdoor climbing.

[SteveM]

I've always been a loyal 5.10 customer but I had a bit of an epihany last night when I borrowed my mate's random red chillis for Dolphin Belly Slap.

Boots with heels that aren't slack, baggy and wrinkled. Wow. Who'd have thought it was possible?

 

I'm off shopping tonight...

[cowboyhat]

How many people do you see in Solutions?

There are LOADS of people wearing them in the castle, though I doubt any of them have ever touched real rock. The logic seems to be; 'these are the most expensive, they must be the best'.

I'd personally suggest not bothering with decent shoes for indoor climbing (unless you really want to be able to climb better indoors). Poor shoes will force you to pull harder, thus make you stronger. And it's damn hard to learn real technique indoors. Have some durable, not-amazing shoes for indoor training, and then the best fitting shoes you can find for outdoor climbing.

I disagree with this. It is an exact idea that I used to have and practiced for years. I would get very frustrated at not succeeding on project problems because the boots I had weren't good enough. What is the point in training hard and working a problem only to then slip off the easier moves several times because the boots are letting you down? Was pinky perky done wearing comfy 5.10 Ascents?

Wearing the same boots indoors as out gives you more time and experience of what you can expect from a boot so that when you are outside you don't have to think 'will my heel stick'? Maybe if your situation is different to mine (live in london, days indoors to outdoors, at least 6:1), then this wouldn't be applicable. And yes indoor walls do fuck up your boots; I have multiple pairs.

[Stubbs]

Wearing the same boots indoors as out gives you more time and experience of what you can expect from a boot

 

[Palomides]

How many people do you see in Solutions?

There are LOADS of people wearing them in the castle, though I doubt any of them have ever touched real rock. The logic seems to be; 'these are the most expensive, they must be the best'.

I see quite a few people wearing them, but round our way (France) they are not the most expensive shoes.

Solutions cost 99,90 € (about £79) in the local shops. The same as Testarossas and only a few €uros more than Anasazis.

Some models of Andrea Boldrini shoes cost over 100 €.

Local non-sponsored climber (heelhooking!)

photo from http://lodevebloc.blogspot.com/2008/03/chasse-l.html

[Paul B]

I disagree with this. It is an exact idea that I used to have and practiced for years. I would get very frustrated at not succeeding on project problems because the boots I had weren't good enough. What is the point in training hard and working a problem only to then slip off the easier moves several times because the boots are letting you down? Was pinky perky done wearing comfy 5.10 Ascents?

Amen to that. You don't get stronger or get forced to pull harder by wearing cr*p boots to train in, you just fall off more and waste your time.

[Houdini]

Well said Paul_B. 

But don't take my word for it; roadtest new V10s against old velcros at your wall.

[Andy F]

I find wearing not so brilliant boots works if your on the routes, but not bouldering at your limit.

[Paul B]

Thats because the moves (relatively speaking) are piss.

[account_inactive]

I wear solutions as a replacement for 5:10 velcros.  They aren't as aggressive as say a pair of Dragons or V10's.  Is £100 that much for a pair of shoes?  Not when they last me a third longer than 5:10.

The heel is pretty good but it's not as precise as a Dragon due to the shape.  I wear then 80% of the time and then a pair of Dragons for technical heelhooks. 

Neither shoe could be blamed for my lack of skill on the rock

[coolboy]

Coolboy, if you were looking for some shoes specifically for that prob you can save your money. The barrel section has been reset.

oh well, looking like the wall again tomorrow again!