[Kingy]

Pretty much every shoe I wear, if I try to use a heel, the shoe comes off. Is it just me that has this problem?

I feel your pain brother, maybe you can sort of bind the heel over your foot with some tape? Right now, I am trying to get back to walking normally without hamstring pain and will be back climbing early next week hopefully, sans heel hooks for some time! This is sort of tied in with lower back problems somehow but its reet complicated says the physio.

[Drew]

I will agree with the comments about sometimes needing them baggy, and sometimes needing them precise. To this end, I still sometimes use my now very baggy new Anasazi velcros, but usually just put on my verde's for anything with a heel hook. I had Madrock Flash's, and whilst they did eventually start working quite well, I think it's a little too specific. I didn't get on with them when heel hooking anything flat, or slopey. Only seemed to work well on slightly more featured rok (like N Wales). The best shoes I ever heel hooked in were some Vision Velcros. They felt so precise. I knew exactly what was happening under there. It felt as secure as if I was placing my toe!

[205Chris]

plus pretty much any sportivas.

I swapped from a pair of greens to LaSportiva Katanas and really rate them. Although the italian idea of sizing appears to be somewhat different from the rest of the worlds - I'm 8.5 in 5.10s and 6.5 in LaSportivas!!

[dave]

yeah i think thats the way its been for years with sportivas, reliably sized 2 sizes bigger than everyone else! bizarre but once you know about it its generally consistent.

[Zods Beard]

take the close fit of the new velcro "magic fingers" add the tension through the heel of the old pink and you have the new white lace up best heel hooking shoe I've tried coming your way soon.

Do you know when these are out? They look sweet. My clown footed friend is frothing at the mouth at the prospect of these. There even making me think about going back to lace ups!

[Houdini]

You mean this?

That heel looks guarranteed to bag-out quickly.  They don't need slashes in the cup.  Also the heel is wide, no good, the Dragon lace up (old) was the most precise heel from 5.10 yet.  Not sure about the new one.

[Zods Beard]

You mean this?

That heel looks guarranteed to bag-out quickly.  They don't need slashes in the cup.  Also the heel is wide, no good, the Dragon lace up (old) was the most precise heel from 5.10 yet.  Not sure about the new one.

So you don't give them a thumbs up? Oops...

[Houdini]

Er . . .   The bling in me says, sexy white shoe.  Always liked the VX.  V10s / Dragons / Slippers for me.

The Sportiva Solutions have the best heel on any boot - if they fit.

[ouch]

I've been using the new anasazi velcros and dont find the heel to be as good as the t-rocks (R.I.P)

Anyone know any shoes similar to t-rocks??  I tried on some dragons but they fely weird and didnt really fit me very well.

[Moo]

I've been wearing the white lace ups quite a bit and they show no signs of bagging yet, they'll be getting a good thrashing in italy in a week so i'll have a better idea then i'm well impressed so far

[robertostallioni]

Er . . .   The bling in me says, sexy white shoe.  Always liked the VX.  V10s / Dragons / Slippers for me.

The Sportiva Solutions have the best heel on any boot - if they fit.

...and with the 'Impact Zone' style heel you can knock in any loose nails too. Great shoe but what fool put an impact zone in a performance shoe?, amazingly it is still good for the hook.

Check out the Jet7, its the best shoe I have used. I use mine as my comp pair but pair No.2 are going outside.
I posted a long diatribe on the jet7 yesterday but lost it to the ethergod, so I have lost the mojo to repost. Suffice to say Heel like old V10/mesa but with better rubber coverage. Front end like cross between old V10/anasazi velcro(not as aggro as V10) Thin rubber on top is much better than new V10 abortion, almost as good as cross hatching on venoms. ONLY downside to Jet7 is the lacing system. 1 crossover strap, should have been 2 to properly reduce volume over foot.
I restate, only downsides I can imagine are lacing system and toe is not AS downturned as V10 for horizontal, but its better on everything else. which is hard to say for an 'old' V10 boy. Venoms and Mantra's indoor by the way.

[Stubbs]

I tried some Jet7's on and was pretty disappointed by how soft they felt - even after managing to shovel my feet into a pair 1.5 sizes too small they just didn't seem to hold my foot in an aggressive position like a v10 or new dragon, and felt even softer than a new pair of velcros (although gave more support than a velcro that was broken in).  If they are discontinuing the v10 as they seem to be I think this is a poor replacement, as the dragons seem to fill the gap for aggressiveness/downturn between the velcro and the v10 well, so it seems a bit stupid bringing out another shoe in the same sort of category.

[robertostallioni]

Fully agree the jet7 is softer than the 'Sazi Velcro. A new Dragon Velcro it is not. But there will always be a place in my briefcase for a pair. Compare them to the Velcro not the V10, more sensitive, softer, perfect heel, more downturned. Just have to pick your problems, carry 2 pairs of shoes.

[Stubbs]

Nice one, i might buy a pair and see how i get on then - they might end up being an awesome grit shoe.

btw I always carry at least 3 pairs of shoes 

[jed]

3 pairs!!!

Its alright for some.

 

[Paul B]

I tried some Jet7's on and was pretty disappointed by how soft they felt - even after managing to shovel my feet into a pair 1.5 sizes too small they just didn't seem to hold my foot in an aggressive position like a v10 or new dragon, and felt even softer than a new pair of velcros (although gave more support than a velcro that was broken in).  If they are discontinuing the v10 as they seem to be I think this is a poor replacement, as the dragons seem to fill the gap for aggressiveness/downturn between the velcro and the v10 well, so it seems a bit stupid bringing out another shoe in the same sort of category.

I'd have to agree with you there, some people are really liking them, but as a softer shoe, they don't hack it as a V10 replacement in my eyes and they do look good mind you.

[Doylo]

i'm gutted the V10 is gone, have been wearing them for years 

[Paul B]

I really do hope they're not putting the Jet 7's forward as a V10 replacement, they're just so different. Even uperwad Paul Robinson doesn't want the V10's to go and he helped design the Jet's... 

[robertostallioni]

Agreed, but since when have fiveten let sense come into it. They have been dropping perfectly good shoes for years. Can it just be marketing? There have been shoes produced that at the time I thought I could have worn forever. The Velcro Dragon/V10 is the latest of these. Hopefully the stash will last till the next toedown slipper emerges.....

[c.j.d.]

i'm gutted the V10 is gone, have been wearing them for years 

Yeah - and look where that got you  .  Every ones knows (or should know) that La Sportiva have the best heels - looking forward to the new Muirs velcro, lookls amazing.  The best heel on the market?  Oh yes...

[Doylo]

i'm gutted the V10 is gone, have been wearing them for years 

Yeah - and look where that got you  . 

cheeky monkey, you know you'd sell your soul to the devil to have an allround CV like mine CJD 

[SA Chris]

Coolboy, if you were looking for some shoes specifically for that prob you can save your money. The barrel section has been reset.

[manbehindthewires]

for people just struggling with finding a good heel fit. Scarpa Techno's have a sort of custom heel thingy that's linked to the shoelaces, so the tighter you tie the laces, the snugger the fit.
i think they come out this month

[monkey boy]

Best heel is definately on the madrock super loco. I might be slightly biased but they really are awesome! Plus you get flames what more could one want! 

[Drew]

for people just struggling with finding a good heel fit. Scarpa Techno's have a sort of custom heel thingy that's linked to the shoelaces, so the tighter you tie the laces, the snugger the fit.
i think they come out this month

They're on the Italian Scarpa website, but not the UK one yet. Same story with the Feroce (the £110 shoe!)

Techno


Seems a little bit like this: