[Christobal]

Tried this problem last week and found it to be very good for an eliminate.
I was wondering if anyones got beta for the topsection though?
I started from the sloper, hung the lefthand minisloper/pebbly hold and put my right foot up on a large black pebble and try to go to the sloper just under the top.
Sounds right or do you have any alternative sequences?

[monkey boy]

Exactly right. Once you have the top sloper with you right hand you move feet up and either go again or bring up the left hand depending on wing span!

[GCW]

There's a video on Moon Climbing, but ignore the first bit as he uses the crack.  Illustrates the moves OK though.

[monkey boy]

I have done it with the crack for the first move and without and it makes no difference to the grade at all.

[GCW]

Indeed.
So why use it? 

[r-man]

Use of crack possibly came about because lots of people struggle to reach the starting handhold without stacking pads. Though I was there yesterday and could reach it comfortably, which I've never been able to do before. Must be a new batch of bark on the ground. Polish Dave could reach the second handhold from standing. I told him to stop cheating.

[Kingy]

Yes the ground level must have risen by at least 6 inches recently as that Blob sloper eliminate further right used to be a big jump to start but now you can just reach the hold from the ground! On PH the hard move is off the poor RH sloper so how you reach it makes no difference really. Notice on the Moon vid how he has his right foot in a slightly higher part of the break to the left of the pebble mentioned in the posts above to gain a bit more reach. This could be useful for those sub 6'. However this position is desparate to get into as he has to cut loose to get his foot up there. It seems to be too hard to get your foot straight up there stepping off the LF good dink used to rock up to the second sloper.

[r-man]

that Blob sloper eliminate further right used to be a big jump to start but now you can just reach the hold from the ground!

You can do a standing start with left on sidepull and right on mono below, apparently. Think it's supposed to be 7b.

[Jaspersharpe]

However this position is desparate to get into as he has to cut loose to get his foot up there. It seems to be too hard to get your foot straight up there stepping off the LF good dink used to rock up to the second sloper.

It's not hard to get into this position (without the crack) but it makes it slightly harder to lock the edge/pebble thing and reach the slopey top. There are two parts to the slopey top bit - really shit and just to the right and over the top a bit more - slightly better. The key is to get the slightly better bit and then get your right foot up so that you can do as monkeyboy says. There is a decent smeary edge below the right hand sloper. Get your foot on here and you're in - someone telling you where it is could be useful as I find it impossible to see when in that position.

[Bonjoy]

that Blob sloper eliminate further right used to be a big jump to start but now you can just reach the hold from the ground!

You can do a standing start with left on sidepull and right on mono below, apparently. Think it's supposed to be 7b.

Damn shame about the change in ground level, it ruins this prob. You used to have to bounce off the deck to sloper with left hand in low mono,  then get the sidepull. Now you just pull on with the sloper and sidepull. Was hard 7a+, now run of the mill 7a. Someone should bring a shovel....

[r-man]

I still can't reach that sloper from standing. But it sounds like it was always a jump start? Explains why it felt so hard, I was trying it from standing - left on sidepull, right on mono. Hard move to slap the sloper, but not impossible. Perhaps you could even do it with hands reversed.

[dave]

i had tried this starting left hand on sidepull, and french starting to the blob with right foot in a heel-toe in the low break, quite and odd move. but then it became clear that istead of doing a conditioney pull through to the pockets, you can in fact go again to the pockets with the right hand. basically, all things considered, it rapidly turned into a non-problem in my mind. if the ground leve has changed, then even more so! shame.

[Bonjoy]

I really like the go again. What's not to like about a tricky deadpoint from a sloper to a shallow two finger dish (then a none to piss pull on this, with RF on pebble to get the top)?

[monkey boy]

Indeed.
So why use it? 

Did the same as a lot of peoplde i think. Watched mr.moon and copied. Was then told that maybe the crack wasnt in. A quality problem though for how rubbish it looks!

[Kingy]

However this position is desparate to get into as he has to cut loose to get his foot up there. It seems to be too hard to get your foot straight up there stepping off the LF good dink used to rock up to the second sloper.

It's not hard to get into this position (without the crack) but it makes it slightly harder to lock the edge/pebble thing and reach the slopey top. There are two parts to the slopey top bit - really shit and just to the right and over the top a bit more - slightly better. The key is to get the slightly better bit and then get your right foot up so that you can do as monkeyboy says. There is a decent smeary edge below the right hand sloper. Get your foot on here and you're in - someone telling you where it is could be useful as I find it impossible to see when in that position.

Tried this this afternoon, good conditions when the sun didn't break thu cloud cover. Managed to get the poor sloper static for first time using the pebble for RF but as I am 5'10" could only get half a pad of 3 fingers on the very edge at my extreme reach!! Thus I could not really move from the position. However, once the left foot had moved up to the break that u can't see from above, I had a bit more reach. I was then in two minds as to whether to pop again to get a better bit higher up or attempt to get my RF rocked up on the slab ala Moon. I chose the latter but my attempt ended half a second later. I reckon next time I will go again. Frustratingly the next 5 goes were close but not as good then I bagged it. I also tried rocking up on the higher smeary break with RF which I can now do off the LF dink but as Jasper says, its a lot harder to static to the sloper but I guess u get more reach this way.

Re Blobsloper eliminate, felt piss without the jump - try the old skool pop for sloper off mono for a bit of contact strength training!

 

[Jim]

 

that Blob sloper eliminate further right used to be a big jump to start but now you can just reach the hold from the ground!

You can do a standing start with left on sidepull and right on mono below, apparently. Think it's supposed to be 7b.

Damn shame about the change in ground level, it ruins this prob. You used to have to bounce off the deck to sloper with left hand in low mono,  then get the sidepull. Now you just pull on with the sloper and sidepull. Was hard 7a+, now run of the mill 7a. Someone should bring a shovel....

Were you wearing platforms the day you did this? We (like 6.5' tall dave parry) have to french start to the sloper. Seems a lot harder than trackside! not a bad problem though

[Houdini]

Well done!    Sam's arms are shorter than a snails! 

[Jim]

t-rex westie you mean

[Houdini]

I don't get cha, Jim . . .

[Jim]

for god sake man, take out your orbital socket plugs

[Bonjoy]

Were you wearing platforms the day you did this? We (like 6.5' tall dave parry) have to french start to the sloper. Seems a lot harder than trackside! not a bad problem though

I guess either the mulch is bedding in or someones lowered the level a bit. If it's easier to do the move starting with LH in crack rather than mono then the level is higher than it was. For the full tick it's no feet in the trackside crack for the top move too.

[Jim]

We all know that, but what I'm saying is its at least, at the very, very least, a full grade harder than trackside

[Bonjoy]

It's down as 7a+. I'd agree it's top end of 7a+ when the ground is low

[Jim]

surely the crux is the deadpoint to the slopey pocket thing up high

[Bonjoy]

It is, but I'd say it only makes a 7a if the moves up to it are piss.