[superfurrymonkey]

Anyway back to the grades at breck rd! Ioan Doyle came close to sending Sorle`s link today reckoning it felt V9 and compared it in difficulty to Jerrie`s roof and Full roadside.

[Doylo]

Anyway back to the grades at breck rd! Ioan Doyle came close to sending Sorle`s link today reckoning it felt V9 and compared it in difficulty to Jerrie`s roof and Full roadside.

You see, the Doyle's speak sense! So that would make the full link up hard V9 or V10.

[superfurrymonkey]

I don`t understand how Pete Robins graded Happy New Year start V8 and then claimed that the full traverse was easier than LWT.     Happy New Year start on it`s own feels harder than LWT.  These grades are winding me up. 

[Doylo]

I don`t understand how Pete Robins graded Happy New Year start V8 and then claimed that the full traverse was easier than LWT.     Happy New Year start on it`s own feels harder than LWT.  These grades are winding me up. 

To be fair to Pete he did HNYS with the old texas beta originally, then he used the right heal for the full link up. Still undergraded though!

[superfurrymonkey]

Ahh but the guys on Saturday reckoned TKM was still V8 even with the heel hook! and to be honest thinking about it I`d have to agree, It`s certainly harder than organ grinder for instance. Anyway brilliant problems they are whatever the grade!

[Doylo]

Ahh but the guys on Saturday reckoned TKM was still V8 even with the heel hook! and to be honest thinking about it I`d have to agree, It`s certainly harder than organ grinder for instance. Anyway brilliant problems they are whatever the grade!

Yeah i find TKM harder than Swing of Fire by a long shot.

[dave]

I don't believe people like John Welford who said SB is the living end and that he's only ever managed to do the start 4 times!!

yeah i don't buy that either, its not that hard. The hard thing about Staminaband is that friggin pocket drop down right at the end!

I always think of powerband as being a 7b traverse (to the jug) into a 1-move 7b at the end, if you think about it. I find the start section of staminaband harder than either of the above 2 sections on their own by a long shot, but granted its very condition dependant, compared to powerband which only has to be 90% dry to be fine. Conditioney 7b+ into a 7b into a 7b? how does this add up with the MATH? over to you Paz, integrate this.

[superfurrymonkey]

I don't believe people like John Welford who said SB is the living end and that he's only ever managed to do the start 4 times!!

yeah i don't buy that either, its not that hard. The hard thing about Staminaband is that friggin pocket drop down right at the end!

I always think of powerband as being a 7b traverse (to the jug) into a 1-move 7b at the end, if you think about it. I find the start section of staminaband harder than either of the above 2 sections on their own by a long shot, but granted its very condition dependant, compared to powerband which only has to be 90% dry to be fine. Conditioney 7b+ into a 7b into a 7b? how does this add up with the MATH? over to you Paz, integrate this.

V11/12.

[Paz]

MATH? over to you Paz, integrate this.

7c+, or 7c if you've done it ;-).