I boulder indoors a few days a week on steep boards (35 degreee and a concave roof to vert wall) mostyl on slopey holds and medium edges. I'm starting to suspect that this has little or no effect in improving my outdoor bouldering which is on granite boulders just either side of vertical but never that steep. I understand that training on crimpy problems on a board would be highly relevent to some limestone bouldering but I don't think it is the case for slopey, non-steep, friction dependent climbing. I found that after a hard days bouldering outdoors my muscles really ache especially the bigger pushing ones in my shoulders.
Anyone have any thoughts?