[Eddies]

That's this one.

Thats it, sorry I didnt read the end of page 1.... thought they where on about Sam on Stall !!
Worth the blunder to bring up those shots tho, nice one JB 

[Bonjoy]

I graded the Fin sitter for the harder method, I wasn't aware of the easier way at the time.

Aaah, I thought this must be the case.

(how does this right foot work then lovejoy?)

Can't remember exactly. But it's LF not RF. I think it involved using foothold first with RF, then foot swapping and stepping RF onto the smear Sam is on in pic, then keeping the flagged  LF on right side of arete to curtail the barndoor for subsequent moves.

[dave]

stepping RF onto the smear Sam is on in pic, then keeping the flagged  LF on right side of arete to curtail the barndoor for subsequent moves.

this is how i do the standup, it works a treat.

[dave k]

Just been to gibb. Took me a while to work out what this easier version of the fin sitter was- then I realised it used the block to the left or the crack with a jam to reach up left to slopers- (bit damp today mind as the slopers are in the path of the runnel above).

I had been sticking with hands and feet on the main fin block, which does make the first move quite reachy and powerful. Anyone else use the block to the left to do the direct fin sitter- I am not really sure why I eliminated it, I guess because it is a block not attached to the fin itself.

Both ways look good mind

[dave]

the only block used on the fin sitter is the little plinth of rock at the base of the fin itself.

[BenF]

I'm confused by this talk of a block to the left of the sitter and jamming a crack.  I'm not meaning to sound mardy but I can't remember there being any obvious other way than sitting underneath the arete and going straight up via some pinches and slopers into the stand up.  Don't suppose anyone has got a good photo of the lower section handy?

[dave k]

I didn`t untill i went back.

If you jam your left foot in a crack between the fin block and another small block, you can reach up left to some slopers, then slap up with the right hand - so you are effectively climbing the left hand side of the fin block- then you can either finish on the right hand side as per the usual standup, or possibly finish on the left hand side (seems like Sam W is going this in Peak Bouldering).

This approach uses the very dubious block and avoids the more powerful pinches with the left hand required by the direct approach.

Sorry no pictures!   

[cofe]

this thread is ridiculous. you just do it as per ben moon on his vid but on first move go up w/left hand to sloper up and left rather than some pinch. it climbs the feature directly.

[Johnny Brown]

Agreed. Its hands on both sides, not just the left. Just use the higher, bigger holds with the left hand.

or possibly finish on the left hand side (seems like Sam W is going this in Peak Bouldering).

He's climbing the feature by the best method. This is not an easy escape left (there isn't one) it goes direct, to force anything else would be eliminate.

[dave k]

I just misunderstood something Bonjoy said about a sloper at the bottom of the crack- thought he was talking about a foot hold. I now get it- its simple really. Let to a load of a confusion. Sorry.

A great problem whichever way you climb it. Now I just need to do it.

[Bonjoy]

I should have said beneath the crack, not at the base of it. It is about a foot below base of crack

[cofe]

lovejoy you flipping idiot. look what you've gone and done.