[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Hi,
 was wondering if there is a list of routes which have been rebolted or are to be rebolted? Interested in some of the 8's at rubicon, any of these on the list?

cheers
tim

[Paul B]

those willing to give of their time to the equipping work will get first priority on the choice of what is to be equipped (within the guidelines of the PBF).

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Hi Paul,
       it was not a critisism just wondering what the score was. If anything had been done yet, and if any schedules  had been drawn up or something.

As far as donating some of my time to equipping, i would be keen but have no experience of bolting. And i would have thought that those people who had done the routes before would be best suited to positioning the new bolts? From both an ethics (know if additional bolts would be allowed/required) and route experience front?


cheers
Tim
p.s. i do donate monitarily however.

[Paul B]

It wasn't taken as a criticism, it was just a short reply... 

Jon said in the other thread he plans to schedule a bolting workshop some time when the weather is better for people interested in learning how to place bolts.
To the best of my knowledge no routes have yet been equipped by the bolt fund, lots of people suggested routes that need re-bolting and that they would like to see re-bolted but as I tried to show with the quote in the end it is totally reliant on people giving up their time to re-bolt those routes.

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Hi Paul,
        ok so surplus of materials and lack of resource. Im try and make myself more free to help then. Presume such things as Drills are available then? Saying for example someone was available to grid bolt all of the deemed acceptable routes at rubicon over the next week (not the case but just hypothetically), the drill and materials would be available. Or is there a certain season that legally it is allowed to bolt?  I know yorkshire have such a problem for example at malham with when it is allowed to bolt etc.

Cheers
tim

[Paul B]

We have expansion bolts and hangers, some glue ins (no resin) and some decent lower offs currently, as well as a decent drill.  To be honest i mainly do the accounts (although planned to do a fair bit of bolting), i'm sure Bonjoy will be along shortly to answer the other questions you have as I honestly do not know.

[Bonjoy]

 The PBF is ok for funds and materials, but at present is pretty much inactive (apart from Chris Klemow using some PBF bolts to re-bolt a route back in summer- i can´t remember which route at the mo). The problem is A a lack of suitably experienced people with the time and psych to do the work and B people with the time and psych to organise bolting and find suitable bolters (in order to avoid bad bolting we can´t just give kit out willy nilly). I´ve been out in Europe on an a climbing trip since mid July (and spent pretty much all my spare time for six months before that preparing for said trip), but will be back in Sheff in Jan. When i´m back I will do my best to remedy problem B, although my time will be pretty limited, so any offers of help on the organisation side as well as the practical side would be very gratefully received.

[JC]

I'm psyched to do some re-bolting for the season next year. I recently did lots of re-equipping work at a couple of crags in the matlock area - Turkey Dip Rocks was completely re-bolted and more recently i re-geared all the sport routes at High Tor as well as freeing the last 2 aid routes.  However this was all done out of my own pocket, which i am not fussed about doing because its what i love to do. But they are super expensive especially for stainless gear. 

[dpb]

Has High Torquing been rebolted?  If so, and should I ever meet you, I shall buy you many a beer.

[JC]

yep high torquing was the first i did, awesome route! i also have a project just to the left of it. i also replaced some bolts on Wil. E Coyote, Pump out the squealies and 'freed' squeezin out sparks (7c) and Limelight (8a/+).  Good selection of independent sport routes now at the crag and no seepage!

[dpb]

Excellent effort, many many thanks!!!!!!!!

[Bonjoy]

Good work JC. Email me if you fancy doing some more and we can sort you some bolts and other kit if needed. You know my email ad (i´m Jon Fullwood in case you didn´t know). I´ll get in touch when i´m back if I don´t hear from you before.