[Fiend]

Any suggestions? Am going there 27th-31st Dec, would like to onsight 7a...

[RopeBoy]

That Poema de Roca is probably okay if you good on steep stuff. I stayed well away as I don't do steep. I think it sufers from being polished, n
o surprise for a 3 star route.

Have a quick look at these pics;
http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/search.html?text=poema&nstart=0&sort=

J

[Doylo]

arabesque if you prefer less steep stuff

[ksjs]

The unnamed (in the local guide) route left of Sara (Encantadas): varied and sustained with high interest finish (there are rests but finish is fluffable so maybe not ideal onsight but definitely worth a go).

El Orejazo (Frontales Medias): enjoyable and steady with time/rest to contemplate finish.

Poema de roca (F Medias): sector classic on tufas but is polished though this doesn't detract from climbing; keeps coming with strenuous / awkward finish but those who use their feet well should have few problems.

Viejo amigo (F Medias): not amazing but totally decent and engaging, one tricky move where hand sequence is key but easy to work out (and reverse if you go wrong).

Arabesque (Escalera Arabe): superb climb! relatively thin start into sustained quite technical climbing with a crux involving hidden hold (but straigthforward to work out), a very satisfying pitch.

El ultimo raya del sol (Pasarela de los venenos): brilliant! bouldery start with a few sustained moves leading to wall climbing and an almost trad style feature to finish.

Tipo sueca 6c+ Rockfax / 7a local guide, i reckon definitely 7a (El Recodo): utterly classic sport route with sustained wall climbing leading to a fairly technical crux in a great position, way above the gorge floor surrounded by huge walls. maybe the best climb i did in El Chorro...

if you want to try some 7a+, Sara is good and no harder than it's 7a neighbour (the unnamed route i mention above) and Hakuna Matata at Makinodromo is brilliant.

Other very worthwhile stuff:

Dura Vida de un frekee 6c+ (Encantadas): delicate start then surprising, sustained and great moves throughout, quality pitch.

Amor sandunguero 6c (Escalera Arabe): superb sport, a classic; technical start takes you to huge pockets where things can be done dynamically or static.

Escalopendra guajani 6b (Escalera Arabe): tricky for the grade with good climbing.

i didnt make it to El Polvorin but was told by several people that the climbing was very good while the 'Cotos' sectors arent apparently up to much.

[Paz]

There's some good tips there that I'll bear in mind next time I'm there.  Anyway:  three votes for Arabesque, and just to say screw the grade you should spend your whole holiday at Makinodromo if you get the weather.  El Polvorin is really cool for 6c wall climbing just as the rockfax says, but it got too hot there after one route.  Cotos is crap, unless you either walk a long way down hill, or jungle bash a long way up hill from the railway line, and then there's some really excellent routes.  I'd also say get on Africa wall - that was a proper in your face bastard full on crag that should make the in situ doggers at Poema de roca soil their kecks.  Is there not a 7a link up on Zeppelin too ;-) There is actually a rest by the belay, but 7a in the guide is still a 7a tick (the roof felt like 7a on its own to me though after a bit of faff!).  I think there're some great routes that are probably suitable at Desplommlandia, but it's sharp, and there was one I menat to do at El Torcal which is worth the road trip even though the climbing's more hit and miss, but only if you're hiring a car. 

[Fiend]

That Poema de Roca is probably okay if you good on steep stuff. I stayed well away as I don't do steep.

Poema de roca (F Medias): sector classic on tufas but is polished though this doesn't detract from climbing; keeps coming with strenuous / awkward finish but those who use their feet well should have few problems.

Tick! Was good, unrefined polished nonsense but the tufas were great and satisfyingly steep. I got a rest wedged in the flange before you move right.

arabesque if you prefer less steep stuff

Arabesque (Escalera Arabe): superb climb! relatively thin start into sustained quite technical climbing with a crux involving hidden hold (but straigthforward to work out), a very satisfying pitch.

Tick! First 7a I did out there. I *thought* I'd spotted the hidden hold from the ground but when I got up there it was miles away and felt desperate and then found the real hidden hold. Which was nice.

The unnamed (in the local guide) route left of Sara (Encantadas): varied and sustained with high interest finish (there are rests but finish is fluffable so maybe not ideal onsight but definitely worth a go).

Tick! Excellent route, made good use of the rests and the finish was brilliant in a great situation.

Tipo sueca 6c+ Rockfax / 7a local guide, i reckon definitely 7a (El Recodo): utterly classic sport route with sustained wall climbing leading to a fairly technical crux in a great position, way above the gorge floor surrounded by huge walls. maybe the best climb i did in El Chorro...

Tick! Although, I squatted on the ledge at the top for a rest before moving up to the chains, it seemed too easy to do so given you're half on the ledge when you're laybacking anyway. Felt like easy 6c+ that way. I thought the middle section was exceptionally good climbing!

I think there're some great routes that are probably suitable at Desplommlandia,

Tick! Did Uretofilo on Sector El Cable as the last route on the trip before the obligatory mad dash to the airport. Was very good, several increasingly hard bouldery sections with good rests, and a very tenacious finish.

Didn't get to El Polvorin unfortunately, nor onto Africa wall which looked absolutely great, was well psyched for some multi-pitch sport. Ah well. Cool place, great trip