[r-man]

Sounds good...

Katz has made a super impressive ascent of the project prow at Gorple. This must be one of the best hard problems on grit. Nice one.

In between bouts of extreme DIY and rock n roll partying (as detailed in Dunning's blog!), I've turned 30, ouch! and climbed a big project at Gorple!

My new problem is on boulder 3, problem 1 in the old YBG- it's a belter! I've named it 'Chabal' after the French Rugby monster, as both are big, hard and tricky to take down! The problem goes from a sit start and finishes in the big 'hueco' on top. It's involved, with some 'proper' climbing on it- knee bars and heel hooks etc, as well as some horrendous slopers!

The rock at Gorple is a little gritty and needs careful cleaning in between attempts. I worked the project off a step ladder prior to my ascent (I got some funny looks from walkers and sheep! as I toiled along the 20 minute walk in with a step ladder sticking out of my pad!). I'm not sure about the grade, as unusually for grit it has alot of different climbing on it and also because of the nature of the rock, maybe 8a+??

As do these...

Managed a couple of new problems at the Buckstone boulder. This is the large boulder in the field opposite Earl crag car park. Well worth a visit with a dozen or so good problems. The first problem is one of the best new problems I have done for ages. Unusually for grit its really involved with about a dozen compression moves up a stunning prow. Just to the right of this line I picked off another problem, much more brutal but shorter lived.

I managed to make the second ascent of Steve's problem 'No Mercy' 8a at the Buckstone (Earl Crag) this week. It's a fantastic problem and I'm a bit gutted I didn't find it first! You've gotta hand it to the Ginger Meanie! Check out the pics on Steve's Blog.

And this...

Last week I managed to get out on the grit after school and managed to climb a new problem at Earl Crag, which I had scoped out over the summer. 'Colt 45' 7c is the project line on boulder 31, problem 2 in the YBG, it's a great line with technical and tricky moves. I'm still amazed that such quality problems are still waiting to be done!

[GCW]

The usual pre-guidebook flurry of problems.  I ain't complaining mind.  Good efforts by the guys!

[SA Chris]

Every time i go to Earl I look across at that boulder and wonder if there's anything good on it. Now at least I know.

Good effort all round.

[Houdini]

Where is Dunnings' blog?


And who is this Mark Katz fella?

[Darren S]

You can read Steve and Mark's blogs at the Scarpa website.

http://www.scarpa.co.uk/team/

[Jaspersharpe]

I just wasted two minutes of my life reading Daniel Kennard's blog cos I had no idea who he was. RAD!, SYKE! I feel so very old (and still have no idea who he is and even less inclination to find out).

Great looking problems by the way.

[Houdini]

I feel so very old

That's because you probably are...     Don't you have a young wife to molester?

[dave]

presumably "SYKE!" means he's dyslexic and really keen on the Inner Hebrides. Also keep and eye open for MLUL, JRUA and EGIG.

[Jaspersharpe]

I feel so very old

That's because you probably are...   

If the text under your amusing little picture is correct then you are in no position to talk, old man.

Actually I do feel particularly old at the moment. I can't believe how a humble cold has fucked up my training for nearly two weeks. I used to just climb through shit like this but now..... It's certainly not RAD and I aint fucking SYKED.

[Sloper]

Back on topic.

I recently did the wall to the left of the Punklet claimed as 'Thumbing your Father' as a highball V3 or E2 6a in old money.  Since this isn't in the guide and the doubts over the FA remain does anyone have any first hand knowledge of this being done (and we're not talking about John Wleford's problem)?

I also climbed the wall to the left of Ice Boat, no idea of the grade as I got a little scared but probably no harder than highball V2 or E2 5c/6a.

[Johnny Brown]

wall to the left of the Punklet claimed as 'Thumbing your Father' as a highball V3 or E2 6a in old money.  Since this isn't in the guide and the doubts over the FA

Jeezus! You're like a stuck record! Yes it has been done, by somone sufficiently talented that he can't grade at that level, and sufficiently modest that he'd rather see a joke name get into a guidebook than crack one off over his own. End of.

[Jaspersharpe]

Sloper has already started two threads about this. 

Although, in fairness, one got no replies and the other degenerated into the usual nonsense about V grades and spaghetti. 

[Somebody's Fool]

Succint as JB's ranting was, it's a bit glowing for my tastes.  Talented?  Maybe.  Modest?  You must be joking.  The whole episode was nothing more than the wayward actions of a smutty numb-nut. 

This 'Jeremy Largeman' sounds like the wanking chimp of the climbing community.

[Sloper]

Jeezus! You're like a stuck record! Yes it has been done, by somone sufficiently talented that he can't grade at that level, and sufficiently modest that he'd rather see a joke name get into a guidebook than crack one off over his own. End of.

As I said at the outset, my doubts are based on the error in the grade, the strange discription and the 'joke' name.  As for you point about the FA's modesty, why does anyone write anything up in the new route book in outside?

Perhaps you'd be so bold as to say who the FA is?  Or is it 'i know and you don't because I'm so cool and in with the scene'? 

As for your suggestion for the rampaging ego etc why not fuck off.

[Fiend]

[TomP]

 
As entertaining as it is reading banter and insults - how do threads nearly always go off topic and aviod the issue. I have read topics on this site for years but harldy post because threads start off meaningfully (usually) and rapidly degenerate. Don't get me wrong, I like reading what people have to say and what is going on in the (usually peak) climbing world.

I think start a thread to arrange times and places to meet face-to-face and sort out any grudges or misunderstandings

Fair play to Steve and Mark for their efforts. They look quiality problems and will have to check them out

Also I want to make clear Daniel Kennard is very sound and very strong. Why insult and try to humiliate someone who you don't know and clearly has sufficient talent to be sponsored by a reputiable company like Scarpa.

[Jaspersharpe]

Also I want to make clear Daniel Kennard is very sound and very strong. Why insult and try to humiliate someone who you don't know and clearly has sufficient talent to be sponsored by a reputiable company like Scarpa.

Er. Who did that? He writes a public blog. I read it and mentioned that his use of language made me feel old. From here it is rather a big leap to say he was being "insulted and humiliated". And who mentioned anything about the validity of his sposorship!?

  indeed.

By the way I don't know what "reputiable" means.

[TomP]

OK. Maybe insulted & humiliated was a bit strong but I was trying to point out that certain comments would seem slightly harsh if they were directed at you. I'm not saying they were ment to be so lets all get on with our lives.



Anyway, I'm really trying to stay on topic but it's much fuckin harder than I thought! There's lots of new stuff being done in Yorkshire at the moment, which is great to see. Yorks., IMO, is so much better than the Peak but very happy if people don't realise this FACT (that should stir things up a bit!). There are some really strong, good climbers and very friendly people - it's a great thing to be part of.

P.S. Jaspersharpe - I'm glad you know what reputable means, you must be very proud and have a great vocabulary. It also seems that you know sarcasm too - so do I !

[andy_e]

Shouldn't you be working, 9-5 boy? 

[TomP]

Yep. It's great having your own office though - I just think about climbing instead (which is avery shit alternative to the real thing)!

[Sloper]

So then; who is the modesty mystery maestro who put up Thumbing Your Father?

[Stubbs]

if you start another 4 or 5 topics here and on UKC maybe the mystery first ascentionist will appear?  Or maybe you could stop repeating yourself....

[Sloper]

I suppose, unlike all you heros, my telepathic powers are below par so I'll never know.

[Jim]

For god sake somebody's fool just tell sloper who did it then he can shut the fuck up.
Why is it so important to know??? are you going to confront them, demand to know why they overgraded another highball V2 at stanage. no one cares.

whats a heros btw?

[lagerstarfish]

I think start a thread to arrange times and places to meet face-to-face and sort out any grudges or misunderstandings

I am tickled by the idea of having a "step outside and sort it out like men" child board, with the results posted after each event.
This must be the ultimate way of settling on grades. None of this namby-pamby reasonable discussion leading to a consensus bollocks; democracy is soooo 20th century. 
What was the origional topic? I forgot...