Eclipse - cul de chien (Read 7952 times)

The Sausage · October 31, 2007, 09:55:55 am

Have searched for an answer already, so apologies if this is a repitition...
...where does it start? the obvious (and obviously better) place is off the big undercling jug, but the guides all seem to indicate it starting off the crimpy holds near the lip.
thanks

Nigel · October 31, 2007, 10:04:39 am

Alright Joe, how's it going over there? Hope its going great guns. Pow! Helen is thinking about coming to Font for a couple of days next weekend, I'm sure she'll contact you about this though. It starts matched on the undercut feature as far as I'm aware, I think bicycle feet help?

Johnny Brown · October 31, 2007, 10:07:19 am

starts off the big undercling jug, however have seen some frenchies, on vid, stacking pads and pulling on the crimpy right hand and bottom of crack left hand. i don't think you'll be able to sleep at night if you do this and take the tick. crux for me is coming into bottom of crack. not done it, but have done it from stacking pads start. ie not done it. hope that confuses you as much as it's just confused me.
just seen nige's reply. bicycle feet do help. one of the reasons i find the start moves hard

a dense loner · October 31, 2007, 10:09:39 am

the above was me again. logging in issues

Johnny Brown · October 31, 2007, 10:46:59 am

Actually logging out issues. Just log out when you use my computer, ok? Once more and there'll be a barrage of negative karma coming your way.

ferret · October 31, 2007, 04:36:27 pm

pretty sure it used to get 7b+ if u were tall enuf to reach RH slopey crimp n then lame (i mean jump) start to the crack n up. some people start from the 2 poor flat undercuts others from the jug, 7c either way, tho better from the jug. best 7c in the forest ?!!

Paul B · October 31, 2007, 07:53:29 pm

Quote from: ferret on October 31, 2007, 04:36:27 pm

best 7c in the forest ?!!

No.

a dense loner · October 31, 2007, 08:12:50 pm

neil h · October 31, 2007, 08:53:40 pm

Quote from: Paul B on October 31, 2007, 07:53:29 pm

Quote from: ferret on October 31, 2007, 04:36:27 pm
best 7c in the forest ?!!

No.

no chance

Jim · October 31, 2007, 10:10:27 pm

I like the way you dismiss it but fail to give alternatives.
Its a very good problem I'll give you that, unfortunately I can't think of a better problem at 7c off the top of my head, so till I do then yes

Houdini · October 31, 2007, 10:14:51 pm

Different strokes etc.. but I find myself in the same boat, Jim. How can it get better than Eclipse?

I should add that starting from anything but the vast slopey jug just isn't cricket.

Houdini · October 31, 2007, 10:17:32 pm

Quote from: Houdini on October 31, 2007, 10:14:51 pm

How can it get better than Eclipse?

Total Eclipse, obviously.

The Sausage · November 03, 2007, 11:13:44 am

...total eclipse obviously, but 7c it ain't...
It seems that the done thing (according to various francais) is starting off the undercut crimps. i think if you live here, or you're too strong, you'd really have to start off the jug, but i'm following current protocol. just that last move...

Jim · November 03, 2007, 01:09:26 pm

everyone I've seen doing it has started matched on the crimps, shorties stacked pads to reach

Houdini · November 03, 2007, 09:30:49 pm

No, no, jump to backwards-facing jugs - move - bicycle - on to the frontface & up & up again - top.

Stacking is an affront to stumpies; real stumpies jump.

Jim · November 04, 2007, 06:36:42 am

I was just stating what I have seen. Are you saying I still had my eye plugs in?

Houdini · November 04, 2007, 08:52:04 am

No. Just that stacking is well, cheating - just a bit.

Can't reach? Well get a ladder, it's all the rage.

a dense loner · November 04, 2007, 02:15:34 pm

speaking of all the rage. i would pay good money to see houdini and katz trying l'aerodynamite off one pad or a piece of carpet

Jim · November 04, 2007, 03:36:42 pm

similar to watching g-unit non?

Houdini · November 05, 2007, 07:07:01 am

Quote from: a dense loner on November 04, 2007, 02:15:34 pm

speaking of all the rage. i would pay good money to see houdini and katz trying l'aerodynamite off one pad or a piece of carpet

Sure, I'll post the vid pronto, it's tagged onto the back of our padless Careless Torque ascents. Where is that vid... ?

EDIT - Can't believe that cunt, G-Unit's taped Emmerdale over it...

dave · November 05, 2007, 09:47:15 am

eclipse starts on the twin flat undercuts if you can reach them (see the pink godoffe guide), or failing that climb into them ala total eclipse. yes you can stack or jump to start higher but then you ain't done the problem. same as we can all reach the jugs at the end of the traverse on mark's roof at gardoms but it still starts at the back even if it is all piss to there.

I ain't done eclipse but its feels like it aught to be the best if not in the top 5 problems anywhere, nevermind font. its the thing i'd most like to get done.

Jim · November 05, 2007, 12:41:25 pm

Quote from: dave on November 05, 2007, 09:47:15 am

I ain't done eclipse but its feels like it aught to be the best if not in the top 5 problems anywhere, nevermind font. its the thing i'd most like to get done.

WORD

a dense loner · November 05, 2007, 08:26:09 pm

savages

Jim · November 05, 2007, 09:42:21 pm

Its a damn sight better than double dontre at pivot and all them other soft touches you go round ticking

account_inactive · November 05, 2007, 09:55:27 pm

All this conjecture from people who haven't done the problem.

It makes no odds starting from the undercuts or the rail. In fact you don't need to match on the undercut if you start from the rail.............so I recon that's easier.

The last move is the crux anyhow. And its a pretty good problem. Not sure if it's one of the best mind