[Richie Crouch]

I thought Bazooka Jo was this one, going from this position to the top with RH:

[neil h]

I thought Bazooka Jo was this one, going from this position to the top with RH:

Yes i thought the same, we did it just stepping straight up

[nash1]

No, that is a problem on another circuit and is 5b or something. Bazooka Jo is the crimpy flake at 6c.

[nash1]

I checked, the one you did it is on the same red circuit, here it is http://bleau.info/sabots/5748.html. Baz Jo is the next problem...

[neil h]

i know what bj is and there is a variation direct without the flake, that has nothing to do with the 5 you pointed out, Eliminates Eliminates

[nash1]

i know what bj is and there is a variation direct without the flake, that has nothing to do with the 5 you pointed out, Eliminates Eliminates

Are you saying that the pic I linked to on UKC is not Bazooka Jo? The 5 I pointed out is a metre or so left of the crimpy flake line which I believe to be BJ.
The 5 can be done direct without the underclings at 7a+ish. Bazooka Jo is red 20bis. I am pretty sure I am right...

[Paul B]

checking the guides  , some frenchie put us on the problem I recounted as BJ, fool.

[a dense loner]

The 5 can be done direct without the underclings at 7a+ish

don't really understand what you mean here nash. do you mean undercutting the huge hole is out? if so this is a very little change in grade. or do you mean the right hand undercut and/or the eft hand undercut sidepull, a la photo? if so i seem to remember there are no more holds.
the slab to the right is possibly the hardest thing i've done in font, fingertip mantle without the big foothold, 7a my very pale arse

[nash1]

I don't really understand that either I must admit. A meaningless eliminate to a cool 5b problem. The slab right of Baz Jo...evil, have tried and bin spanked. Wad for doing it!

[a dense loner]

smeared right then left, or maybe just left, then really high step on right. most of weight on left fingers bending backwards as you're mantling up, not pleasant at all, but i was in awe of how dirty it was on several visits

[dave]

Here is Bazooka Jo
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=74530

i thought Bazooka Jo was an eliminate slab/slap thing from the crimp right of that guy without the groove at all. if it isn't then theres a 7a eliminate there somewhere.

[Dr T]

the slab to the right is possibly the hardest thing i've done in font, fingertip mantle without the big foothold, 7a my very pale arse

yeah feel off that too...

[neil h]

the slab to the right is possibly the hardest thing i've done in font, fingertip mantle without the big foothold, 7a my very pale arse

yeah feel off that too...

join the club, wanking problem

[neil h]

right then here is the score once and forall


BJ is red 20 up the crack, right is 7a eliminate with out the big crimps called Amanite Dalloïde 7a

the left is Passage à l'Acte 5+  then you have Legalize This   7a+ (7b)


description : from the undercling of red n°20 directly to the top (eliminate).

I have drawn a map for the eliminate

[GCW]

Amanite Dalloïde 7a

I seem to remember this was a bit naff.  Short slab/wall.  2 moves if that and a bit fingery?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=19206
I think Tom's right foot may be out, but the chalked crimps next to his elbow are eliminated.

[neil h]

Amanite Dalloïde 7a

I seem to remember this was a bit naff.  Short slab/wall.  2 moves if that and a bit fingery?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=19206
I think Tom's right foot may be out, but the chalked crimps next to his elbow are eliminated.

yes his foot is out, thats wy it felt easy, you should be more left than that

[GCW]

Thought as much.  You can see how impressed I am in the background.  Put your sunglasses on before looking though 

[neil h]

 

[a dense loner]

no,no,no. that right foot will not do

[neil h]

its about 4+ thatway

[GCW]

I think Tom's right foot may be out

no,no,no. that right foot will not do

its about 4+ thatway

Harsh responses there!!  Simply confirming what I thought would have sufficed 

Where does it go?  Between the flake/groove and the crimps?  About 2 foot left of Coolboy?  It seemed a bit daft so we didn't spend long on it.  If it's a classic then we promise to go back and do it properly   

[neil h]

its hardly a classic, more of a well i have done everything else here