[andyheb]

This place is good and has the added bonus of possibly some of the best sun sets in lancashire, but still haven't sussed out the sequence for totally focused.Last time I went I was trying to get stood up with a undercling in the break and rock over onto to my right to reach into a crimp for my right! seemed desperate and painful for the grade? anyone got any knowledge?

[andyheb]

just had a look at your new guide greg. Top quality work it has cleared up a few lines for me! The site is looking good and liking the new guides your putting up. You should really get that guide book out!

[Greg C]

Thanks for the feedback fellas. In answer to your various query's...

Totally Focussed SDS: I don't know if you've read the text in the guide (maybe you have and you're all monsters) but it's described without the large foot flake. If you use this (as Ben says) it's just a touch harder than the stand up. I know it sounds eliminate but it's a good variation and as it's pretty much the same grade with the flake I thought it a worthy inclusion despite the fact it's a slight eliminate. As I say, maybe you did it this way and thought it easy but it seemed harder than Debaser to me, and I'm generally okay at wall climbing.

The Crank: No Nige I didn't make the description up, if I had I'd have used the phrase "push-pull pressure toe smears" in the description. I had a dabble on Sunday and pretty much worked it out, although I didn't do it as I wouldn't commit enough on the "make a long lunge diagonally up and left to a good but distant pocket" move, as your left foot is on a smear and it's barn-doory as fook if you miss the pocket (but essentially not as desperate as it looks) - I suspect it was originally done as a top rope problem. Reckon it would be okay with 2 or 3 pads and a good spotter.

[Nigel]

Blimey, The Crank lives!!!!!! Nice one G.

I can't even remember a foot flake on Totally Focussed, so I'll stop commenting on the grade based only on hazy memories! If you say 7b then fair do's.

I rate this crag. Its got it all.

[GCW]

I had a look at The Crank years ago but being on my own (and being a wimp) I didn't give it a real go.  It seemed quite a committing sequence to get established (going left) which is easy to come off.  But, memory may be playing tricks on me.

Interestingly I've been here 5 or 6 times but seem to use a different approach each time 

[Greg C]

As an aside, for any keen strong(ish)men reading this, here are a couple of project links for you if you fancy a first ascent...

Start at the base of Lone Tree Groove SDS and follow the break into and up Poison or the same link into E-Fix. The moves along the gapping break are ace. A bit sustained for me at present.

[BenF]

I see what you mean about Totally Focused and the foot block Greg.  Cool, that means I can go back again to do it this new improved way.

[Greg C]

There is a low quality video of "E-Fix" here...

http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/51.html

[Nigel]

As an aside, for any keen strong(ish)men reading this, here are a couple of project links for you if you fancy a first ascent...

Start at the base of Lone Tree Groove SDS and follow the break into and up Poison or the same link into E-Fix. The moves along the gapping break are ace. A bit sustained for me at present.

Come on Greg, someone's got to take on the "if it ain't linked then it ain't a tick" mentality for the South Lakes. At least until I'm back in action when I will take Great Pleasure in attempting to enchain every limestone buttress within 5 miles of Carnforth into one single problem. Don't do thisen down aswell, you can do it Mr Anesthesia.

Nice video of E-Fix btw, pissed it. Moves look amazing!

[Doylo]

its true, everything must be linked. EVERYTHING! Good vids greg

[c.j.d.]

Nice one Chappers - looks god good.  Hopefully up in a weeks time if you fancy hooking up - I'm keen for the project at the Shucks Lair (if that's still an open line?) 

[Greg C]

Nice one Chappers - looks god good.  Hopefully up in a weeks time if you fancy hooking up - I'm keen for the project at the Shucks Lair (if that's still an open line?) 

That lines fair game, especially seen as it involves a move I have no chance of ever doing. Incidentally I have revised the access/approach info on the Shucks Lair topo, so be sure to print off an up to date version before you go. I'll be up for meeting up if I'm not at work, although I am in Italy next week.

At Warton; E-Fix saw a couple of repeats over the weekend. Nick "Old Man" Clement grabbed a send as did Dan "Various Artists" Varian. Nick thought the grade was about right, but Mr. Varian found a sly intermediate thus negating the big throw for the lip, Dan thought it was 7c+ with this method. Incidentally, just to prove he's the dark horse beast we all new he was he did it the original way too, monster!

[GCW]

Nik and I had a look around yesterday.  The Black Wall looks good, we'll try stuff next time we visit.  Greg, the Brick says there's "good bouldering" a couple of hundred metres left of Black Wall.  Is this true?

Also, vids in the non-quality video thread.  Debaser, Totally Focussed SDS, Plumbline Traverse.

Was the boulderer that was leaving as we arrived anyone from here?

[GCW]

Sean Gelder did E-Fix again today, so

YouTube version:

[Adam Lincoln]

Sean Gelder did E-Fix again today, so

YouTube version:

That was quick!

[GCW]

Would've been quicker but Vimeo was being awkward.
Nice to see you guys!

[nik at work]

Given the debate further up this thread just thought I'd mention that I did the crank yesterday. Worth having a couple of mats and a spotter. Long reach (for me) then easy. Grade? Fuck knows, felt like a long way to me but the lanky might romp it. I'm happy to take 7a until someone else suggests otherwise.

This is an awesome venue, but sadly I'm running out of problems I can do...

[GCW]

It's a funny one.  If you are short(er) you can get your feet in a more positive position, but it's a big reach.  If you're tall the feet are crap.

Nik on Voodoo People, The Crank and Debaser LH:





Also, where does Voodoo Magic go?  Do you go to the lip as per Voodoo People, then shuffle to the left end of the break, or do you go more directly?  A more independant line seemed to start as per VP, then move left as per Hoodoo People but get the sloper/pinch on the lip before getting the left end of the break with the right hand.  From here I assume you finish straight up without putting a toe in the VP pocket?  Can you heel out left or is this off line/unecessary?
Greg and Co, beta gratefully received.

[Greg C]

The problem on that video shown as "The Crank" is how I climbed P7 (although I started on the ground), this is on topo at 5+. The Crank starts on the block to the right (pocket RH) and goes up before moving left.

Nice one on Voodoo People though, smooth.

[Greg C]

I know this is my fault for using a duff sequence (and describing it as such), but doing E-fix using that sequence in the above video is about 7c.

I don't know, people these days just take the grade and run.

[GCW]

The problem on that video shown as "The Crank" is how I climbed P7, this is on topo at 5+. The Crank starts on the block to the right (pocket RH) and goes up before moving left.

So the pocket you use for Pocket problem, then straight up?  Or to the final crack Nik uses (that thread thing)?  Ah.  That's a different fish of kettles.  I think we got a bit confused by the original description re: block

A good steep problem up the wall right of The Graunch. Start from a block on the ground and climb the bulging wall above.

Greg, regarding E-Fix Nik and I were discussing this yesterday.  And we agreed with you  .
The way you did the problem seems the most independant line possible, albeit still using the VP jug for the LH.  Other ascents (whilst not detracting from the efforts) are basically Poison from a silly start and using duff beta.  But E-Fix would be even cooler without the VP jug and with a direct finish avoiding the crack   

Any Beta on Voodoo Magic?

[Greg C]

After a short exchange of emails with Ru we came to the conclusion (as did Jordan) that for the 7c+/8a tick you can't use any holds on Voodoo People, slightly eliminate but there you go. Others may have done it this way but as far as I know the only people who have definitely done it this way are myself, Ru and Jordan.

Voodoo Magic: Haven't tried it but I was there when Nick C did it. He basically climbed VP to the lip moved about 0.5m left and went straight up the vague prow on tiny holds, it looked an obvious variation, good and hard.

[GCW]

Voodoo Magic: Haven't tried it but I was there when Nick C did it. He basically climbed VP to the lip moved about 0.5m left and went straight up the vague prow on tiny holds, it looked an obvious variation, good and hard.

We thought that but it didn't seem too independant.  Variation finish essentially.  I find VP nails getting round the lip (Nik'll tell you how amusing it is).

[Adam Lincoln]

Others may have done it this way but as far as I know the only people who have definitely done it this way are myself, Ru and Jordan.

Is the way Sean does it in the video right or wrong then?

[GCW]

Essentially using the pocket on Voodoo People for your left turns the problem into the lip traverse (Poison, 7c) except using bad beta.  Only really struck me as we were driving up yesterday.

I think that's what Greg is getting at?