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Black Rocks (Read 11572 times)

grimer

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#25 Re: Black Rocks
July 12, 2007, 04:42:42 pm
cool. let me know if you would have any other input into a block racks script tom,

g

Sloper

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#26 Re: Black Rocks
July 12, 2007, 10:17:01 pm
I think Deg Bulger did the FA of Birch Tree Wall direct (and probably graded it 5b).

grimer

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#27 Re: Black Rocks
July 20, 2007, 07:49:33 pm
Hi Mirf, have you seen this? See you posting up on other threads, wondered if I had got the Cybertron info right.


And yes, Sloper, I know who did the FA of Birch Tree Direct. That info is in a book you can buy in a shop. The same book that tells you what routes have been on Bauston Tor for 20 years, and where it is  ;)

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#28 Re: Black Rocks
July 22, 2007, 05:16:47 pm
aye - it was.

 Read it whilst bombing China tuther day - horrid looking feet towd Mart.

too much o' this wi no mat!

 :bounce:

Oh Dave and it was Mark Stokes in that Pic at Black Rocks.

Cheers

Si




Sloper

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#29 Re: Black Rocks
July 22, 2007, 10:29:24 pm
And yes, Sloper, I know who did the FA of Birch Tree Direct. That info is in a book you can buy in a shop. The same book that tells you what routes have been on Bauston Tor for 20 years, and where it is  ;)


Are you sure :-\

I recently bought a book (an Evil Cradling :read:) and it had nothing in it about Birch tree Wall or indead, gogarth.  It did however say that Three Pebble Slab is only HVS.

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#30 Re: Black Rocks
July 30, 2007, 09:04:16 pm
Plimsolls and hawser laid rope, Lone Tree Groove late 1940's


Mirf

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#31 Re: Black Rocks
July 30, 2007, 11:25:29 pm
Sorry just got back from El Churneto

Cybertron mission

My first ever new route I think. Goes from the  right side of the block into a smeary scoop an up to a vague break on the arete. It then goes staigh up the arete using slaps and small crimps with the right hand and up to a porthole pocket on the right a committing move round left leads a flake and the top .

Nearly gave it E5 6a but it felt more serious than that but not quite 6b. I`d done things like "the thin air "track of the cat" and "pseudonym"around then and it felt a grade harder. Maybe soft E6 6A

Hope this helps




grimer

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#32 Re: Black Rocks
July 31, 2007, 11:15:57 am
Yeah, brilliant photo tb. Where's that from? One of your own collection?

And Mirf, did you ever understand this?

"Lawyer's Arete   E3 5c   10m   1980s
Climb the bold arete to the left of the base of Lawyer's Chimney."

I've rooted around and can't find anything that makes sense of that. The best idea I can come up with is that it does the upper section of CM, having stepped onto the horizontal break from the ledge on the right, avoiding the stepping up on the scoop bit.

Any ideas?

Tb

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#33 Re: Black Rocks
August 10, 2007, 11:02:45 pm
The pictures one of a small number I've got of my Dad climbing.  I've a few more of Black Rocks taken around the same time, but the Lone Tree Groove one is my favourite.

 

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