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staden quarry - sport climbs - any good? (Read 3517 times)

jfw

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staden quarry - sport climbs - any good?
June 06, 2007, 02:56:03 pm
did some cool trad at staden last year - and never looked at the sport stuff.

has anyone done any sport climbing here? is it any good?

dave

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is the sport stuff in the chossy far quarry? i'm pretty sure if you've done the trad there you've done the best stuff.

etjoset

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I'm guessing that you're referring to the magnificent Craig-y-Biceps, which is a couple of hundred metres down the road from Staden. This place is actually much better than appearances might suggest and is well worth a visit if you're a fan of steep ground at reasonable grades. The high vegetation (stinging nettles) is off-putting in summer but the routes are pretty easy to clean - just take a big brush. This place has been none to popular, despite being completely re-bolted a few years back. It's a great venue in a hot summer if you climb in the 7's and are fed up with the shady spots in Chee Dale.

StuM

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has anyone been up to Craig-y-Biceps recently? is it dry after all the rain in may?

205Chris

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has anyone been up to Craig-y-Biceps recently? is it dry after all the rain in may?

Was climbing at Staden today and wandered down to have a look at this place. Didn't climb anything but looked pretty dry to me.

jfw

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Didn't climb anything but looked pretty dry to me.

ah but did it look any good?

205Chris

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Didn't climb anything but looked pretty dry to me.

ah but did it look any good?

That would depend on whether your definition of "good" involves gardening routes as you climb them.

Was a bit overgrown in places but having said that one or two routes looked decent (Main Motor Mile was pretty clean). Probably not worth spending a day there though.

 

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