[Greg C]

Couple of news worthy bits and bobs...

http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/8.html

Apologies for the usual third person story telling but it's hard to report this sort of guff any other way.

By the way if you like small holds and limestone New(er) Rose is the best of the best!!! The sitter will go too although cooler conditions will probably be needed.

[Moo]

we wouldnt mind greg its when you do it during normal conversation that it gets a bit disturbing 

[GCW]

Nice video Greg.  That was always a problem I wanted to do but never got round to.  Oh, well.   

[GCW]

Also, I didn't see a link to your video of .  Another cool video.   

[BenF]

Greg, didn't realise that you'd just done Aeons too when we were talking yesterday.  Good effort.  It may be worth noting or recording that Skeletor/Dolph Lundgren Mick did the traverse there and back a few years ago too (although in his usual elusive/retiring style he only told a few people).

[SA Chris]

Apologies for the usual third person story telling but it's hard to report this sort of guff any other way.

One isn't particularly bothered how one reports one's ascents, it's a bloody good effort nonetheless.

[Greg C]

Greg, didn't realise that you'd just done Aeons too when we were talking yesterday.  Good effort.  It may be worth noting or recording that Skeletor/Dolph Lundgren Mick did the traverse there and back a few years ago too (although in his usual elusive/retiring style he only told a few people).

Now then Ben, good to catch up yesterday.

I did know that Mick had done some stuff on the Aeon buttress, although I presumed that as it was not common knowledge at the time he would have used the jug on the arete to the left of the finishing crack, and whilst anyone without a penchant for the elimination of obvious holds - JONATHAN! - would have used this, it's not in on Aeons or Aeon Reverse, but if I'm mistaken then hats off to him and the second ascent goes to Mr. Drago. 

[BenF]

'ello 'ello 'ello officer! 

Erm, God only knows what beta he used, probably just Power of Greyskull.  I'm very happy to let Mick know that he used dozens of illegal holds and that he actually climbed a 7b+.  The best thing about doing this would be that he's likely to get so wound up about it he'll drive up there week after week until he gets it using the "proper" sequence, probably getting some kind of injury in the process.   So you can keep the hat on for now.

[BenF]

Hello again Greg,

Having discussed this last night with Lion-O (he was just passing, honestly we don't spend all our evenings talking about limestone eliminates), he says that Mr Drago did Aeons using the instructions provided by Gaskins on the old Fairy Steps topo that he did years ago.  Don't know whether that means much to you?  It doesn't to me really.

[Greg C]

As I thought.

This is the text from the original Fairy Steps topo...

V4 Crack on left of wall from sitting start (V2 from standing).
AEONS V13 ** Link the 2 traverses L-R-L (don't use crack on R to rest) and finish up the V4 crack.

as you can see The Big G forgot (or more likely thought "as if anyone would use a jug!"  )to point out the jug (left of the crack) ain't in.

[BenF]

Fuckin' hell that was a quick response Greg.  Lion-O didn't understand when I tried to explain about what you'd said about the jug so I guessed Skeletor didn't know about that further rule either. 

as you can see The Big G forgot (or more likely thought "as if anyone would use a jug!"  )to point out the jug (left of the crack) ain't in.

  

Yeah, I have to admit it seems strange that anyone would even consider using good holds on a boulder problem!  Surely anything beyond first knuckle is just cheating? 

Anyway, forget all this daftness and well done on your ascent (or should that be your "shuffle and back") Greg.  Very impressive now I understand the true rules.  I'll get on to telling Mick that he needs to get obsessed again.

[Monolith]

Whilst we're on the subject of crag policing, perhaps I could clarify the exact start of the H20 sitter. Do both hands have to start matched on the crimp, or can you start left hand crimp, right hand mono?

 It still amazes me that a fully grown man is cultivating his haircut to emulate Lion-O. Genius.

[Greg C]

Haven't done this for a fair while but if my memory serves me correctly it's 7b starting both hands on the edge and 7a+ for one hand on the edge and the other in the pocket.

[Monolith]

Nice one cheers Greg. Saw in the topo that it got V8+, but couldn't decipher where the policed start was.

[chappers]

well you make sure that you stick to the correct holds tom otherwise the police will be knocking at your door with their beating sticks out!! 
ill come give you a spot on it at some point. did you do flying finish??

[Greg C]

well you make sure that you stick to the correct holds tom otherwise the police will be knocking at your door with their beating sticks out!! 
ill come give you a spot on it at some point. did you do flying finish??

You steer clear of me when your beating your stick!

[BenF]

More worrying Greg, is that there was to be the beating of sticks (plural) and not just solitary stick beating.  I may avoid the place for a bit if there is going to be group stick beating going on.

[Monolith]

If there's going to be some homoerotic stick fetishist flogging action on the go, think I might have to use out of bounds holds more often.

Cheers Chap-master - Stop caning the beer and come help me cane some of the questionable beta I have seen being deployed at Woodwell of late.

[BenF]

I might have to use out of bounds holds more often.

How about actually using some "in bounds" holds occasionally?  Rather than using those used by Owen or any others that your far too lanky frame can reach. 

That was a joke by the way and not meant as having any basis in truth what so ever.

[chappers]

I might have to use out of bounds holds more often.

How about actually using some "in bounds" holds occasionally?  Rather than using those used by Owen or any others that your far too lanky frame can reach. 

That was a joke by the way and not meant as having any basis in truth what so ever.

no basis in truth? how about on the problem at woodwell with the triangle pinch that those lanky bastards skip out. cheats!!!

im off to beat my stick 

[BenF]

no basis in truth? how about on the problem at woodwell with the triangle pinch that those lanky bastards skip out. cheats!!!

im off to beat my stick 

Right, I've just spent most of last night trying to work out which triangle pinch you're on about and I know I'm being really dense by forgetting some really obvious hold on some really obvious problem.  Put me out of my misery and tell me please.  Once I know, then I can beat my stick too.


And on the subject of lanky cheats, let's not even mention sneaky toe hooks due to extendable legs. 

See I didn't even mention it.

[Greg C]

I believe chappers is talking about the triangular pinch on "The Beauty of Being Numb"?

NEWS UPDATE: Went to Farleton last night to gets some shots on New Rose and did the sitter (superb conditions) but also seemed to be able to almost statically lap the stand-up (it was quite humid when I initially did it) so I'm going to downgrade the stand-up to a sturdy 7c and the sitter gets 7c/+... bloody hell, conditions really are an annoying feature when trying to grade problems!

Also did a new problem on the crag, I'll get news of this up on LB once I've thought of a name.

[GCW]

NEWS UPDATE: Went to Farleton last night to gets some shots on New Rose and did the sitter (superb conditions) but also seemed to be able to almost statically lap the stand-up (it was quite humid when I initially did it) so I'm going to downgrade the stand-up to a sturdy 7c and the sitter gets 7c/+... bloody hell, conditions really are an annoying feature when trying to grade problems!

Well done (again)!  I'll have to drag my fat arse up there sometime, been meaning to have a look for ages.

Also did a new problem on the crag, I'll get news of this up on LB once I've thought of a name.

Why not call it "New Goose" or "Goose Rose"?

[Greg C]

New problem info up...
http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/8.html

[Greg C]

Updated John's old topo with grade updates missing lines etc.

http://www.lakesbloc.co.uk/sei/s/1284/f63.pdf