In times gone by many of us 90s lycra redpointers at 8a would no way be able to do a font 7a....
"ok you do it on routes, but youre not doing the hardest moves you can do, cos youre doing moves 20, 30, 40, one hundred foot up, so youve already done something to get there, so youre already tired. bouldering is all about your absolute maximum level."
As for climbing technique i've seen some very good young children at the local wall all very natural and fluid, clearly little training needed for themI would like to suggest to these mentioned meat beast that power isnt everything
They were better at doing sport routes because that's what they were psyched for and that's what they spent time doing.
These days I don't know anybody who climbs full time; everybody works.
Saying 'the old school' were better climbers is misty-eyed revisionist nonsense ... Surely developing the ponderous static obsession of a sport climber would be nothing but a hindrance for a boulderer.
Quote from: Bonjoy on May 03, 2007, 08:24:41 amSaying 'the old school' were better climbers is misty-eyed revisionist nonsense ... Surely developing the ponderous static obsession of a sport climber would be nothing but a hindrance for a boulderer.OK, the use of the word better was deliberately inflammatory, but I still stand by what I said. It's not like the 90s climbers did get up routes like MIF because of a ponderous static obsession. The impression I get from talking to Rich Heap and Zippy is that they got up them with lower levels of base strength by being able to apply a snatchy style with a higher percentage success rate than climbers today. I don't see many modern boulderers who can do that, which makes sense, as bouldering provides no incentive to develop this skill.
Well done Stu!!!!! Have you left your rope on it? It's tradition so that when someone asks whose rope it is you get to mention casually that it's yours and you've just done it.
Even then, there are still between 50-100 people bouldering at this standard today yet most of them seem to struggle on 8b sport routes. Why? I don't accept they are not fit; many of them have climbed sustained link-ups like staminaband, which is on a par for difficulty with a route like MIF.
there is a difference between traversing fitness though and goin up fitness. My hardest problems have all been sideways shuffles, i can't convert this fitness to routes though, don't know why.
take one hand off for 5 seconds every few moves to make a clip, makes a massive difference
saying malc really did a F9a or whatever, he didn't
Then theres the thing of trying moves by pulling on from the ground rather than having to hang on a bolt
similarly in the basque theres a bizillion people climbing 8c and nobody boulders that hard, nuff said.
seems a better description of the difficulty than a boulder grade, if parisellas went on for a another 100m at the same height wud it still not be a route?
QuoteThen theres the thing of trying moves by pulling on from the ground rather than having to hang on a boltwhich can also be dramatically easier to work than something next to the ground, there are many problems where the hard moves r too high off the ground to just pull on to them, careless torque, western eyes, west side story, are just some obvious ones that wud be easier to work on a rope.