why GCW has said that i have no idea.
As Dense says, it is contact strength that boards train well. You can throw in pull ups and bent-arm hangs etc etc to add variety.
no.deadhangs train static strength(and your boredom tghreshold). campusing trains contact strength.
The type of static strength required by the fingers in climbing is known more correctly as isometric strength. This is where the muscles and tendons hold their appropriate joints and levers in a locked position - Iso meaning ’same’ or ’one’ and metric meaning ’length’. Here, the force expressed by the climber is equal to the negative force of their body mass under gravity. In more advanced training speak, climbers sometimes differentiate between the type of finger strength which is required to latch a hold at speed during a dyno or deadpoint move (namely contact strength), and secondly the strength which is needed to actually use or hang the hold.
hen pulled. Hope that makes sense Dense.As Dense says, it is finger strength that boards train well.
It's not often I get a hold and pull it with my fingers- I usually crimp it and use upper arm muscles to pull.
The way forward is getting some biceps and triceps to be proud of