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British Tech 7a problems (Read 13550 times)

GCW

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#50 Re: British Tech 7a problems
February 23, 2007, 08:31:03 am
Just re-read my last post and it sounds a bit arsey.  It wasn't supposed to be, so don't take it wrong!!! 
It's a bit like "Old School F9a" being soft compared to "Nu Skool F9a" but more extreme.  That's all I was trying to say.  There seems to be a huge difference between "easy 6c" and "hard 6c".  If you look at Greg's nice
chart then British 6c can be anything from Font 6c+ to Font 7c+.  maybe it does link in with harder font grade= more 6c moves, but I would assume some short (1 or 2 move) font 7b+ problems must be top top end Brit 6c?

I'm sure the School is very nice by the way  ;)
« Last Edit: February 23, 2007, 08:37:54 am by GCW, Reason: I hate Apple »

Vitamin K

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#51 Re: British Tech 7a problems
February 23, 2007, 09:58:21 am
I was talking to Cayleb (have you met him?) at Brownstones, and he reckoned the crux of Right Hand Hank was Brit 7a. Who knows? Certainly not I. When you finally nail the Unjust dyno, that's probably a good bet.

Talking to Caleb is what started this off!! I'd seen RHH given 7a somewhere.  Caleb told me it's not 7a, only 6c.  I asked specifically.
The Dyno would be hard to grade as it's morpho, I guess a single nails move may merit 7a.  As an aside, Peaky is apparently tall enough to do it as a semi-mantel. move, hence the V7ish.  For Mortals I still think V8+......

Jeez, just when I was thinking I'd finally done a 7a move you had to post this!

Anyway, everybody knows 7a doesn't exist there are just shades of 6c and that's all there is to it  ;)

PS: My first post on UKB and it's to do with grading - what have I become?

GCW

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#52 Re: British Tech 7a problems
February 23, 2007, 10:03:16 am
You done Right Hand Hank?  How many ascents has it had?  there seem to be a lot of people who work on
Quote
some gash eliminate

{Caleb's quote not mine}  What grade (V and Brit tech) do you think to it?

Quote
PS: My first post on UKB and it's to do with grading - what have I become?

A Brownstones minor eliminate obsessive devotee?

Vitamin K

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#53 Re: British Tech 7a problems
February 23, 2007, 10:14:03 am
I have indeed done RHH and it has 2 ascents that I know of...one of them Robin.

I gave it V8, Robin added a +

You could call me a Brownstones devotee and I do like "gash" eliminates if they keep me interested. :)

GCW

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#54 Re: British Tech 7a problems
February 23, 2007, 10:31:31 am
I did suspect it may be you.  So 3 ascents so far including Caleb. 
You done the Unjust dyno "proper" by any chance? 

Vitamin K

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#55 Re: British Tech 7a problems
February 23, 2007, 11:09:57 am
I haven't done the unjust dyno but then again I've not really had a go on it.

Just digressing there must be some solid 7a and harder moves on the back of the calf at Ilkley?

Duma

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#56 Re: British Tech 7a problems
February 23, 2007, 11:49:02 am
British tech 7a is the equivelant of flashing Font 8B.

once done, its downgraded.

GCW

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#57 Re: British Tech 7a problems
February 23, 2007, 12:03:46 pm
British tech 7a is the equivelant of flashing Font 8B.
once done, its downgraded.

I know what you mean. 
Should we use the same technical grading as we do on routes?  This is where we stole bouldering tech grades from originally.  So Parthian/Partheon Shot, Equilibrium, Angel's Share etc etc should be the benchmark 7a?

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#58 Re: British Tech 7a problems
February 23, 2007, 01:06:05 pm
Just found this:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,5756.0.html
Can't find the other thread mentioned.  Any links?

unclesomebody

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#59 Re: British Tech 7a problems
February 23, 2007, 01:29:32 pm
British tech 7a is the equivelant of flashing Font 8B.
once done, its downgraded.

I know what you mean. 
Should we use the same technical grading as we do on routes?  This is where we stole bouldering tech grades from originally.  So Parthian/Partheon Shot, Equilibrium, Angel's Share etc etc should be the benchmark 7a?

Wasn't hubble climbed before all of them?

Johnny Brown

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#60 Re: British Tech 7a problems
February 23, 2007, 01:42:28 pm
No.

Unless you're calling Dunne a liar, that is?

Andy F

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#61 Re: British Tech 7a problems
February 23, 2007, 01:51:49 pm
Anyone remember seeing the piccies of Dunne doing Parthenon in High mag many moons ago?

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GCW

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#63 Re: British Tech 7a problems
February 23, 2007, 05:02:55 pm
Parthian! Parthian!
http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/parthian%20shot
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parthian_shot

Calm it Kermit:  I know.
Have you not seen The Big Issue though?  And it was the Partheons http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Partheon+Shot

Since you're here R-Master, is RHH 7a?  Stick your neck out kid, go on!!!!!

 

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