[Houdini]

Go for the sit start proj.....

I think there are general hold issues here.

Oh, and the SDS to Gnasher, Sheep Pen, Ogwen.

And Solace Arete, Talfarach/The Headland, which I've only had one quick go on, but was quite impressed with the line and moves, if not the situation.

And more grit and sandstone as I am tired of Welsh bouldering.

[Adam Lincoln]

Go for the sit start proj.....

And Solace Arete, Talfarach/The Headland, which I've only had one quick go on, but was quite impressed with the line and moves, if not the situation.

Solace is brilliant!

If you keep walking/scrambling round the headland for another 10/15 mins you get to the best project in wales!

[Pantontino]

The Bytylith Wall project (which surely must go)

Pet Sounds sitter (which will definitely go)

The Fred Nicole Roof (which will probably go)


I'm telling you, if Dave Graham moves to Abersoch, they'll all go down!

[Houdini]

If you keep walking/scrambling round the headland for another 10/15 mins you get to the best project in wales!

Which is?  Don't say one of those bloody E12 aretes which no-one in their right or wrong mind would bother with.

Pantonteeny - what's the Bytylith Wall thing?  Name rings a distant bell in the deserted vestry of my mind...

And what makes you say Pet Sounds will go from a sitter?  I really don't recall that it has the holds to support a very low start.

[Johnny Brown]

If you keep walking/scrambling round the headland for another 10/15 mins you get to the best project in wales!

Pantonteeny - what's the Bytylith Wall thing?  Name rings a distant bell in the deserted vestry of my mind...

These are one and the same. If anyone is going to try this, how's about NOT taking a rope? There aren't enough projects of this quality left and I think it deserves a ground-up first ascent. It would succumb all too easily to a headpoint approach.

And what makes you say Pet Sounds will go from a sitter?  I really don't recall that it has the holds to support a very low start.

I'd agree, but then I'm not Dave Graham, and I don't live in Abersoch, at least not this time of year.

[Pantontino]

Well said that man.

It is a pretty stunning looking thing. (Cofe has a picture of Johnny Brown on it)

Pet Sounds: IIRC you can reach the low break from a sitting position (especially if you start slightly to the right). Then it's just a case of building your feet up and flipping your left hand into an undercut position. Simple really (sort of).

[Houdini]

If anyone is going to try this, how's about NOT taking a rope? There aren't enough projects of this quality left and I think it deserves a ground-up first ascent. It would succumb all too easily to a headpoint approach.

Seriously - realistically - how many people do you know that would be prepared to OS/GU a route like that, the landing being what it is?  I doubt even Caff hates the world enough to do that.  I agree it's a wild line, but breathing is so enjoyable.  I don't see it happening; great idea, but...

EDIT - Hang on, I mis-read.  Has JB tried this? 

[Johnny Brown]

Seriously - realistically - how many people do you know that would be prepared to OS/GU a route like that, the landing being what it is?

Loads. Have you been? The landing is a gently sloping wave-cut platform - a lot better than most of the landings in the pass, let alone Talfarach. Yeah its high, but not as high as Careless Torque or Misericorde - 5 or 6 pads and it'll be fine.
The hard moves don't look that hard, they're just near the top, headpointing this would undoubtedly be no big deal  - one afternoon, another obscure E6 6c. I think it deserves more.

[unclesomebody]

Seriously - realistically - how many people do you know that would be prepared to OS/GU a route like that, the landing being what it is?

Loads. Have you been? The landing is a gently sloping wave-cut platform - a lot better than most of the landings in the pass, let alone Talfarach. Yeah its high, but not as high as Careless Torque or Misericorde - 5 or 6 pads and it'll be fine.
The hard moves don't look that hard, they're just near the top, headpointing this would undoubtedly be no big deal  - one afternoon, another obscure E6 6c. I think it deserves more.

Bit over the top don't you think. It's just another small bit of rock. Or maybe it looks different from that pedestal?

[Fiend]

Hey Pantonio, on the subject of projects, any more news on this beast: http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=153 - had a walk past it on a wet New Year's Eve and was highly impressed by the austere sheerness of the main face (could see the traces of climbing on the problems on the right). Shurely a boulder for the JB ground up massive (with several mats and tied down spotters!).

[Jim]

is this it?

it has been tried on rope before apparently but to no success. I think the worst bit isn't really the height, its the fact that you've got your foot wedged in solidly if memory serves

[Johnny Brown]

That's the one Jim.

[Houdini]

Sorry.  I'm confusing Bytylith Wall with something else entirely.  And I can understand if for a moment you thought I was on crack.

If you are talking about what's in the pic, I haven't been, only seen that lump on DVD.  In fact it looks piss, why hasn't it been climbed yet?  

[Fiend]

Woah, cool looking problem, would it go as a lead - filed down sliders, rps, that sort of thing?

[Johnny Brown]

Its the kind of thing where to fanny about with gear would make it harder. With a few pads the landing is fine.

[Houdini]

If you keep walking/scrambling round the headland for another 10/15 mins you get to the best project in wales!

This is why I'm confused.  If that's the best project in Wales right now (or even Ysgo)  I'm moving back to Norfolk.

[nathan wind]

my goals for this year?

stay injury free, get some mileage on projects, tick plenty of classics, get away as much as I can..

projects (which will probably remain so all year due to the fact they're all too hard for me..)

jasons roof, crookrise
sweet dreams, rocky valley
full power gardoms

would settle for;

matts roof, almscliff
the terrace, burbage
brad pit

really wanna do clash of the titans, looks cool and a great setting..

get to font, maybe magic wood, defo north wales, the lakes, then back to the states...

[Pantontino]

Strictly speaking you're right, but I think it is a tricky grey area. When people like John Welford, Steve Dunning, or whoever, have given bouldering grades for problems/routes they have done, it is because, after the roped practice session(s), it felt like a boulder problem, rather than a route.

In short: if a climb still feels very scary after rope practice, then give it a route grade. If it doesn't, give it a bouldering grade.

I'm not saying I necessarily agree with this point of view (as I do have a lot of sympathy with the JB's desire to treat the last great problems with an element of respect), but I do understand where they are coming from.

[Pantontino]

is this it?

it has been tried on rope before apparently but to no success. I think the worst bit isn't really the height, its the fact that you've got your foot wedged in solidly if memory serves

Looks just like Pex Hill in this image (save for the lack of green lichen, graffiti, shot holes, metal fence at the top etc...)

[Pantontino]

Hey Pantonio, on the subject of projects, any more news on this beast: http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=153 - had a walk past it on a wet New Year's Eve and was highly impressed by the austere sheerness of the main face (could see the traces of climbing on the problems on the right). Shurely a boulder for the JB ground up massive (with several mats and tied down spotters!).

Not to my knowledge, not unless one of those witches has done it.

[Monolith]

Looks just like Pex Hill in this image (save for the lack of green lichen, graffiti, shot holes, metal fence at the top etc...)

Was thinking just the same thing before when I looked at it. Shame it doesn't have any green lichen, graffiti, shot holes etc, it wouldn't feel right.

Which reminds me. Will there ever be an urban bouldering Stone Circles special Pantontino?

[Pantontino]

If the weather in the Peak continues being as shite as it has been for the last few months, then there might be an indoor Stone Circles (and I'm not joking).

Anyway, must dash, got a swift session on the 'ever-dry' Ormes lined up this afty.

 

[Bonjoy]

 How about a Rivelin probs/highballs circle? Quite often it's climbable when the peak is fully clagged over. Or a tour-de-dry-corners circuit taking in the usual wet weather problems dotted about various crags, eg eatswood trav, Westside Sory, Remergence Block, Hueco Wall (Cratcliff) etc. I'm sure a good list of probs could be constructed if needed.

[andy popp]

Sport routes UK - Get ball rolling on the Peak re-bolting project and hopefully re-climb a few forgotten classics in the process. The Orge at Chee Tor would be good.

You should do The Vision if its not already been sorted. I really enjoyed it but the gear was already shit when I did it in the mid-90s. And it should suit any stray bouldering types down to the ground.

[james]

In short: if a climb still feels very scary after rope practice, then give it a route grade. If it doesn't, give it a bouldering grade.

Where do you draw the line, how scary does scary have to be before it becomes a route???  I think there is an obvious answer to this and that is If you use a pad, it is a boulder, use as many pads as you like or need too feel comfortable.  If you don't use a pad, for either on sighting, ground upping or headpionting then it is a route.  If you use 1 pad on a route, then why not 2, if 2 why not 3 if 3 why not 30???  Using just 1 pad on a route makes a huge difference and the line needs to be drawn.