[dave k]

Put this one on my autumn tick list, because it looked like a good line. But I am at a loss how to get started- any beta?

[Somebody's Fool]

Have a very hazy memory of trying it, so this might be utter poppycock.  But here goes...
I think I started with left hand in the crack and right hand out on a poor bit of the arete.  I then stood on with my right foot and toe hooked the crack with my left foot.  This enabled me to slap up to the slopey ledge with my right hand and slap for the arete above my head with the left hand. Then there was some shenanigans to get my right heel onto said ledge too.  Trying to rock round rightwards to an obvious sidepull was where I kept falling off.

This is a stunning problem which as far as I'm aware doesn't get tried very often.  The only thing that put me off sessioning it and doing it was the pebbles.  It is quite simply the most anti-social gritstone I've ever tried to climb.  Proper cheesegrater stuff.

[AndiT]

Yeah the rock is grating and the landing is annoyingly sloping. You sit on your pad to change your boots and slip down the hill.

I can't really work it out either, there are definitely holds up there, but getting to them is another matter. Probably needs the upper bit cleaning a bit too as when you start getting higher up and slap your left hand up for the blind pocket you always get a showering of gritty sand and lichen.

[AndiT]

Has anyone else out there managed to get on/up this problem yet? I've returned to it after a brief look many years ago and I'm currently getting the blind pocket on the left and the crescent crimp on the right, where you are once again semi comfortable. Can't really see what is going to happen from here, the next move will surely see me fighting for life, or, more likely, somewhere on the other side of the A53, frothing at the mouth.

Incidentally, has anyone done 'Arete on Left', problem 7 on the Magic Roundabout boulders? Gets 5b! in the Roaches guide, 7a in Ru's but I can make no headway at all once established, the top seems improbable...

[andy_e]

  World's hardest 5b! I seem to rememberhaving to throw for the top far over on the left...

[AndiT]

But then did you finish?????

[andy_e]

Nope 

[AndiT]

Thank goodness for that!

[Eddies]

How the frigg does one get past the blind pocket over the lip!?
7B... and the bloody rest!!

[Andy B]

With your left hand in the pocket, rock over and reach up to a sidepull crimp round the right side of the arete.

One of the best problems in the peak, in my opinion.