Quoteand will get pissed off when you say that anyone who trains is automatically a shit climber. When have I ever said this? I have never said this because it is nonsense.
and will get pissed off when you say that anyone who trains is automatically a shit climber.
What I do find laughable are people for whom training becomes more important than climbing. Again its the same loop - get strong indoors, perform shit outdoors, get stronger indoors, no improvement outside. I don't see the point in this. Fair enough if you only want to climb indoors, but I don't see it as the same sport. There seem to be a lot of folk in Sheffield who have lost sight of what they are training for.
I also find The School clique pretty funny - there seems to be this attitude that performing well in The School is some kind of international benchmark that is an end in itself. I don't subscribe to this view.
Quote from: Johnny Brown on December 18, 2006, 05:19:50 pmI also find The School clique pretty funny - there seems to be this attitude that performing well in The School is some kind of international benchmark that is an end in itself. I don't subscribe to this view.Are there that many people who have lost sight of their goals through training?
Those who can, climb. Those who can't, train
I quickly realised in my career that i'm never going to be the most technical climber in the world, i just haven't got that natural ability. So from that point i concentrated on steeper climbing which involve more strength than technique
Quote from: 'Doylo' I quickly realised in my career that i'm never going to be the most technical climber in the world, i just haven't got that natural ability. So from that point i concentrated on steeper climbing which involve more strength than techniqueSo what's your beef again?
It seems from the last few post ive read you seem to have major issues with anything training/power/school related...say it isnt so?
pay no attention to his constant criticising of people who climb inside/ train
My point is simply this: I meet far more people who would benefit from putting more time into their technique than into strength. This has been true ever since I've climbed in the Peak District - however people seem to not take this seriously. Perhaps it actually takes more dedication to get outside (especially in this current weather) enough to really improve your technique, than it does to get stronger indoors. Plus the bonus is you're actually climbing.
I'm sure part of the problem is that the training wall is currently a blank canvas. Those who are used to training on a wooden board with fifteen years worth of pre-set Ben and Jerry problems aren't used to using their imaginations. They want to just turn up and test themselves against an established benchmark that involves maximum power and minimum skill. There is far more potential on this one board than at the school, but it will take a while to unlock. Some folk just want it all on a plate.
Quote from: 'James' you guys seem to do a lot of training. Makes me feel a bit uselessThose who can, climb. Those who can't, train.
you guys seem to do a lot of training. Makes me feel a bit useless
I don’t think this can be dismissed as a myth. To a greater or lesser extent I think it’s fairly common. Self styled training guru Matt 'Smyth' Smith was the archetype. Most examples aren't as extreme as him but there are plenty of way strong boulderers who have achieved much less than far weaker counterparts.... etc
JB's advice and viewpoint is valid, but it's predicated on the assumption that the best things to climb are grit lines in the best style. Buoux's view is also right if you want to climb 9a on limestone and consider grit routes to be something that stop you getting bored whilst directing your efforts elsewhere.
The UK's top climbers are conspicuous by their absence save for BB guns and Leo. I haven't noticed them down the school much.
I've made this point before, but the great advancements in world climbing at the moment are taking place on the big granite faces. The UK's top climbers are conspicuous by their absence save for BB guns and Leo. I haven't noticed them down the school much.
I've made this point before, but the great advancements in world climbing at the moment are taking place on the big granite faces. The UK's top climbers are conspicuous by their absence save for BB guns and Leo. I haven't noticed them down the school much.QuoteAnd I believe last time you made this point you came up on a bit of opposition?
And I believe last time you made this point you came up on a bit of opposition?
Don't make me list Britains top climbers that do or have once used the school as a training facility.
but because they are so damn strong people neglect to see how technical they are
Funny thing is Ru, in my world there are many other rock types. When I go on holiday, I want to be able to climb huge granite routes quickly and in good style, or climb tottering sea cliffs or desert towers where strength can be a positive handicap. This is another sheffield mindset; that there is only steep lime or grit, or occasionally steep granite boulders. Most of the great rock climbs of the world are actually big crack systems. I've never seen a worthwhile crack indoors yet.I've made this point before, but the great advancements in world climbing at the moment are taking place on the big granite faces. The UK's top climbers are conspicuous by their absence save for BB guns and Leo. I haven't noticed them down the school much.