[Paul B]

No not that crappy teen movie
This year I finally finish my degree after what seems like an age of reading papers entitled "concrete for a sustainable future"... and many other "exciting" things.
I have myself a van:

of questionable reliability,structural integrity and a pitiful top speed however it does have an MOT and I can insure it.
I've also got a date which I can leave on (june ish).
The plan is to try and sample as much of the good sport and bouldering that europe has to offer, i've never really been outside of France to climb, the question is:
Where do I go? i'm looking for the best area's/routes/problems (pictures would be awesome) and any knowledge on guide books or campsites or countries that may be of use, anyone else travelled in a camper and found something invaluable that you took? (apart from the box i have containing an entire new clutch assembly).
At the minute the Frankenjura is probaby the first place we'll head, (heard the route next to Action is good? Name anyone?) and i'd also like to visit Magic Wood and Rodellar, would love to try some things at Buoux but im guessing it will be way too hot, maybe a few days stop at Ceuse but im not sure I can be faffed with that place  .
Thanks in advance.

oh and dare i say it: Any none climbing points of intrest? (For the missus)

[SA Chris]

I would recommend you get it serviced before you go, and get someone to check it out and see if anything needs to be done before you go. VW may not be so bad in Europe, but I had to wait in Briancon for 5 days while some sparkplugs got shipped for my old Bedford CF250 at exhorbitant costs.

Otherwise, the world is your oyster, I envy you. Spain is great during cooler months, but how much bolted limestone can you take? Places like Tarifa and Pedriza might be nice for a bit of variety.

[Paul B]

Thankfully justkampers are next day parts suppliers and there are loads of vw enthusiasts dotted around europe, a full service and engine overhaul is on the to do list before going but being an aircooled flat4 there isnt a great deal to do, a bit of welding is needed to ensure my batteries dont drop through onto the road at some point and some gas pipes need changing for the central heating (yes thats right central heating!).

I reckon I can take a fair bit of bolted limestone but anything and everything else will be considered, there's a few pics on moonclimbing of somewhere described as a huge kyloe in the woods, that might be good for a flying visit.

[r-man]

Check out this thread, and the links on it, for info on a whole host of Euro bouldering recommendations.

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,5525.0.html

[zemike]

hi, the route next to action is a hainous crack (feiste fäuste ~ means something like fat fists...)... if you´re into that... but next to that are some excellent routes: teddies wampe and slimline (both ~ 8a).

[unclesomebody]

I think he means slimline, which is indeed an excellent route. How long are you going for Paul?

[mark]

The near-vertical style of climbing might not be to everyone's taste but the Verdon is somewhere you should visit. It's staggeringly beautiful, intimidating, exciting and there are many terrific routes. And there's Annot just an hour away for some light bouldering relief when the exposure gets too much. Plus the framboise Paluards which the bakery in La Palud used to sell are the best pastry I've ever tasted! If they still sell them will you bring one back for me?

[Doylo]

Have i not given you a copy of Stonedlove Paul?

[Paul B]

Cheers for all the above. Not sure you'll want it mark if its a month or two old by the time it gets back 
No doyle havent got stoned love, nearly scarred for life from the last dvd you gave me, was sitting eating my lunch happily getting psyched then you lot all appear wearing nowt but nappies! WTF?

[Doylo]

 

I hope you noted that i wasn't wearing a nappy.

[Adam Lincoln]

The Mules got a boner is the funniest thing ive ever seen! 

[unclesomebody]

The Mule did NOT have a boner. His boner is so large that there isn't a wide enough angle lens in existence to capture it. It is so fucking big. BIG!

[monkey boy]

I finish uni this year as well! Prob going to head to magic for 6 weeks or so after earning some cash. Around August/september time. Then going to be off to america the following winter should be ace.
If you can get local knowledge Tralenta is an awesome place to go, only visited for one day and didnt climb but it is a beautiful setting near Tignes.
go to www.freestone.fr for a topo and email Marc Daviet if you have any further questions he owns the freestone wall in Annecy. Met him last summer, top lad!

[Adam Lincoln]

Not sure you would want to be in Magic Wood for 6 weeks. Certainly get yourself to Cresciano, Chronico and Ticino. Might be a tad on the warm side in Cresh and Chronico though.

[Paul B]

The Mule did NOT have a boner. His boner is so large that there isn't a wide enough angle lens in existence to capture it. It is so fucking big. BIG!

- what can i say? you worry me a lot sometimes.

[monkey boy]

Yeh i think cresc and chironico will def be too hot! Went for a trip there last easter and it was sun bathing weather. Well not been before so lots i want to do and sure will have trips else where too! Just see what happens. Lots of time climbing thats the key!
Haha

[Nibile]

just derop me a line for everything in italy.
everything LEGAL, i mean.

DOLOMITES.

[r-man]

If you can get local knowledge Tralenta is an awesome place to go, only visited for one day and didnt climb but it is a beautiful setting near Tignes.
go to www.freestone.fr for a topo and email Marc Daviet if you have any further questions he owns the freestone wall in Annecy. Met him last summer, top lad!

The topo used to be there, but I can't seem to find it anymore. Possibly just my language skills though. Agree that it's a lovely place, but you really do need local knowledge to get the most out of it, as lots of problems can be hard to find in the jumble of boulders, and many aren't on the topo - or weren't on the last version I saw anyway.

If you are in the area, this is also not far from Ailefroide, which has some excellent stuff (probably much more to do than tralenta). Or in the other direction, there is some good looking bouldering in the Italian mountains. Didn't get a chance to sample this due to bad weather, but again a very beautiful location.

[SA Chris]

If the topo for Tralenta is off the grid, I have it all printed out if anyone wants a copy or a scan. I printed it all out a while back, as I thought the bouldering was near Annecy too, not just the wall.

[monkey boy]

I have got it saved on my computer so could email it to anyone who was interested! What guides are there for magic woods? I saw the one in blocheart but thought it looked a bit rubbish!