[Aussiegav]

help the young.
tried this today, failed terribly. was catching edge and little pocket with left hand, abovepinch. but couldn't get any higher around onto the face. had left foot on starting pinch. any tips.

nightsalt.
what a great gem.
was undercutting with right hand and getting left onto good pinch on the arete. both feet in low break but couldn't get right out of undercling.
again tips please.

[cofe]

HTY: need to go left hand round arete again i think to dish then RH to small undercut on back wall before left foot up to pocket and jug.

nightsalt involves RH up arete. feet very high. feel like you could just lean back and bridge gully.

[Aussiegav]

oops, Nightsalt..
i'm climbing up wrong side of the arete.
thanks cofe,
 

[cofe]

common mistake i think. we spent a while sussing it out. can't believe the design for that bit of the crag got past planning and building control.

[ferret]

ask johnny he can do the sit esasier than i can do the stand up ffs

[cofe]

ask johnny he can do the sit esasier than i can do the stand up ffs

i really wouldn't heed JB's beta should he post it. ridiculous.

[Sloper]

Is Nightsalt to the left of Calvary or am I thinking os something else entirely.  PS has anyone tried Turtle Power?  Ok up to the big sloper but the move to the break seems a bit tricky (and yes I know a pebble has been broken) but looks doable.

[Johnny Brown]

Listen to Cofe on Nightsalt. I'd tried it a load until Ross C dropped the knowledge on me - you're not fully on the left but you're defo not on the right. Great moves, as he sez, spoilt by the gully a little. Tall springy types will be able to jump up the right side tho.

Three starts for Help the Young:-

Original - left hand on pinch, left foot on purple nick, jump start to pebbly rail with right, bounce up with left to pocket.
Match feet on arete and slap really deep with left to blind shallow pocket around second arete.
Right hand in to undercut, left foot in pocket, left hand jug

Stand start - left foot on little yellow rail, left hand around left arete on 'no-hold' (think dragging the arete with your wrist) right hand on very poor slopey crimp.
Tense abs, clamp in, quickly stand up slapping left hand up.
Toe-down heel-hook with right foot near right hand, reach up to left end of rail with right, feet up, left into pocket and into stand.

Sit (sans block) - left hand in obvious pocket, right foot high on cracked nick, right hand on purple nick (used as foothold for jump start).
Pull in, sit on right foot, wrap left leg to left, reach up to wierd pebbly guppy.
Left hand slaps up a series of no-holds until you're high enough to bring left heel into start pocket, allowing a tiny slap with right hand (crux) to poor slopey crimp.
Bounce left foot from heel in pocket to toe on rail and you're into the stand-up.

Don't know anyone who has done Turtle Power.

[dave]

oops, Nightsalt..
i'm climbing up wrong side of the arete.
thanks cofe,
 

nightsalt is climbed on the right. I saw wakey chris piss it this way. Ask scouse.

[Bonjoy]

How tall is 'wakey Chris'?

[Scouse D]

about 5'10"

[cofe]

perhaps nightsalt 'should' be climbed on the right. however, this isn't necessarily the case.

[Jim]

nightsalt can be climbed on either side. enigma did it on the left, lovejoy/dense got to same position for top move on right, obi-wan did it on the left but didn't do top move. I flapped about trying both sides. the problem with the left side is getting your chest round the arete to slap the high slopey side thing off the pebble. the problem with climbing it on the right is its more balancey and a big stretch from the undercut.
I didn't like the rock much on help he young so only tried it once or twice

[Johnny Brown]

nightsalt can be climbed on either side. enigma did it on the left, lovejoy/dense got to same position for top move on right

getting to the top move is not doing the problem. We can all get to the top move, but are we really getting to the top? No. I'm not saying it can't be done, but I've never seen it done...

[Bonjoy]

 Gave up trying as my tips were getting shredded. But the way it will go for me (preferably in colder temps) is, RH undercut LF on good hold below break, pullup and reach high LH pinch on arete, RF in break and rock up the right side of arete to reach RH slopey layaway,transfer weight to RH layaway by leaning left, get pebble on left side with LH, run foot (not sure which) up to nick on the arete and slap higher RH layaway, LH break. So not really on the right side, more like start on the left side, swing onto right, then swing back onto left to finish.

[Johnny Brown]

That sounds far more like how I did it.

So the question is, did 'Wakey' Chris really climb it on the right? I would define climbing an arete on the right as having three limbs and CofG on the right at all times.

[dave]

as i said, i saw wakey chris climb it on the right. and i mean proper right not scouse right. my memory is hazy as far as a sequence goes cos i dind't really try it myself but it was deffo climbed on the right, kinda where you have to be careful cos the landing slopes away. he reached some obvious point (a break?) then scuttled round to the left and slide down the chimney to descend. scouse was there and also jim, they may have a better memory of it. jim was wearing a blue project t-shirt, and scouse was wearing Cofe's cream and brown hat which he had left in scouse's car after they cos rained on in the lakes. chris was wearing mocasyms. Unfortunatley I can't remember any details though.

[Scouse D]

Wakey Chris did it on the right. That's right "Johnny" Brown.Right?

[cofe]

can i have my hat back?

[Scouse D]

I ain't never not not never not had your hat.

[cofe]

[jimbo]

I think I may have a photo of Wakey Chris on nightsalt. If i can find it I will post it up.

[Johnny Brown]

[jowgli]

went and tried nighsalt today. rh undercut, lh up to pinch on arete, rf break, pebble rh, lf break...stuck...

any photos, videos, ideas all welcome 

[Johnny Brown]

Have you read the above? There is a poor dish, layaway high up for your right hand. To use it you have to lean left, into the chimney. Left hand gets a pebble in the chimney (hook thumb over I think), then frog legs up and monkey-on-a-stick for glory.

I'd still like to see proof of this being climbed on the right. Watched Ryan try and fail for about an hour, by the end he was doing a second-generation barndoor into dyno. Even John Allen stopped to watch. Its easy to get far enough that it looks possible, but I've yet to see anyone get any further.