[Will Hunt]

Maybe Im getting a bit ahead of myself but Im keen to give these two classics a proper go. Tried them unchalked today and can see one decent crimp above the start of Catalepsy to use which then leads to one far out to the left. Couldnt find much on Breakaway. Anyone got pictures or advice on either of the climbs?

Much love

Will

[dave]

I would have thought that andy farnell would have some good beta for you on these.

monoblock

(that is just to make sure he spots the thead). 

[Will Hunt]

He. Ta kidda. Monoblocks next on the list. Of course I wont be able to do it but I reckon Ive got a lot of improving yet to do so bring that bitch on. After all if I can do Hart's Arete and Black Magic they're 6b then I might be able to train and practice and practice and do Breakaway or Catalepsy which are 6c. Then Monoblock is (supposedly 7a). Get back to me in a couple of decades.

[r-man]

Anyone got pictures

From offa pantontino's site...

[Will Hunt]

Had a good work of both of them tonight and Breakaway is far more amenable. I can get established with my right hand on the improved hold but cant figure out which smear to use to obtain the next jug. Grrrr.

[Andy F]

It's been a while since I was down at the hallowed hole in the ground, but here's what I remember:

Catalepsy (my method):
Hands in the break, RH upto edge, RF onto good foothold, LF high into break and rock left for slopey edge with LH. Sort feet out in the break and cross over for good edge with RH. You can again sort your feet in the break, swap hands on good edge and chalk up. Then with LH on good edge and RH on slopey edge put RF onto poor smeary edge and pop up for slopey crimp with RH. LF goes high onto another poor smeary edge and go again with your RH for hold just left of the obviousu pebble. Sort feet onto reasonable holds and cross through for good pocket. Romp up to the niche and breath. Then climb up on the RHS of the niche to reach a goodish edge at the RHS of the break (beware most of the break is slopey), pull over and grab the tree-root. Success 

[Scouse D]

Had a good work of both of them tonight and Breakaway is far more amenable.

Pardonwhat? Breakaway is hard and Catalepsy easy(ish).
I'd try catalepsy again if I were you it's actually got good holds on it. Luckily being a bit taller than Andy I don't have to really stand on anything poor with my right foot(like in the pic) I just keep pulling with LF on low good foothold and RF in break then just hanging when i get higher. I don't trust that tree root at the top atall either.

[andy popp]

Breakaway might actually be as easy or even easier than Catalpesy post chipping

[Scouse D]

Great shame.

[Will Hunt]

Managed to do Breakaway up to the break today so am mightily chuffed. Met Pete and Ewan who gave me the proper beta as opposed to my poor sequence. Had it in a number of attempts. Thanks to all who helped with the beta.

 

[andy popp]

Good effort Will