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shropshire bouldering guide (Read 37340 times)

Bonjoy

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#25 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
February 05, 2007, 11:18:30 am
Quote from: Mark Katz
I've seen things you people wouldn't believe. Attack ships on fire off the shoulder of Orion. I've watched C beams glitter in the dark near the Tannhauser gate. I've beheld the twin wonders of both Easter Edge and Urban Culture Dispatj. All those moments will be lost in time like tears in rain. Time to die.

Johnny Brown

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#26 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
February 05, 2007, 11:32:40 am
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UCD looks and sounds like a more accurate replica of L'Angle Parfait.

Not to those who have actually seen it I'll wager.
I'm pretty sure we checked out easter edge circa 1994. I'm keen to go back for sure, if only to peer over the wall of that guy's garden near middle buttress and gawp at his tethered hawk collection.

Bonjoy

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#27 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
February 05, 2007, 11:52:38 am
Don't say that JB! I was hoping to build it up to mythical status and then we could all be smug when it's backfilled and no one would have been any the wiser.

Johnny Brown

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#28 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
February 05, 2007, 12:54:47 pm
Woah! You jump to conclusions.
I was going to continue: to those who have seen it, Urban Culture Dispatj is more like a cross between Master's Edge and My Piano, but in miniature.

Pantontino

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#29 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
February 05, 2007, 01:09:57 pm
Is UCD under threat? Here and gone in the blink of an eye...

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The light that burns twice as bright burns half as long - and despite the fact that no fucker, bar Bonjoy and his cohort, have witnessed your perfect form, you have burned so very, very brightly, Urban Culture Dispatj.

Bonjoy

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#30 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
February 05, 2007, 01:18:49 pm
Put it this way, if you hear the sound of a JCB overhead, it would be advisable to relocate with haste.

SA Chris

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#31 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
February 05, 2007, 02:27:20 pm
I think you two should just

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Revel in your time

Houdini

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#32 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
February 05, 2007, 11:18:33 pm
Revel in their time?!  If these boys revel in their time any more here they'll get the sack!

1 to 10?

OK.  Easter Edge is not in Font.  Therefore it can't be a 10, perhaps a 9.  It's Shrops sandstone and not Font sandstone, therefore it can't be a 9 & must be an 8.  Jez has dragged his lard-ass up it, therfore it can't be an 8 - must be a 7.  It's in a quarry and not natural, therefore it can't be a 7 - must be a 6.

There you go.  L'Angle Parfait: a perfect 10.  Easter Edge = 6.  Totally obvious.  And I've only seen it on a Nokia.

« Last Edit: February 05, 2007, 11:24:19 pm by Houdini, Reason: To talk shit. »

Johnny Brown

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#33 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
February 06, 2007, 09:10:18 am
1 to 10?

Ok. Urban Culture Dispatj is in the peak. No points lost there, still on 10. Its fabled chatsworth bed peak gritstone, still on 10. Its in a quarry and not natural, ok, down to 9. Punters getting up it? None. It retains an aura of perfection with only one ascent and a string of jilted suitors. Back up to 10?

Bonjoy

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#34 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
February 06, 2007, 09:16:37 am
Having a John Gill grade of B3 has got to add value.

Somebody's Fool

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#35 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
February 06, 2007, 09:39:48 am
Having a John Gill grade of B3 has got to add value.

Surely 11 then?

Bonjoy

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#36 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
February 06, 2007, 09:55:51 am
Eleven. Exactly. One louder.

Johnny Brown

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#37 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
April 02, 2007, 11:30:02 am
Ok, the promise of L'angle Shropfait has got too much, planning a shropshire hit this week.
The high sports website is still not working, anyone fancy spilling some online beans?

Or failing that, Grimer can I borrow your guide?

Somebody's Fool

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#38 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
April 02, 2007, 11:35:38 am
anyone fancy spilling some online beans?

What a charming turn of phrase.

grimer

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#39 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
April 02, 2007, 11:41:38 am
Sure, Adam. But having read only the second page of this post, i'm not sure which one you want: Nessy Nick's or the Shropshire Scrolls?

Johnny Brown

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#40 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
April 02, 2007, 11:46:10 am
I've got Nessy Nick's, as they stock it in Ootside. It's the fabled shropshire boldrin scrolls I'm after. Apologies for bombarding your inbox on this matter also, I never know in which direction your beady irish eye is focussed.

Pantontino

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grimer

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#42 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
April 04, 2007, 09:46:51 am
I went to Nesscliff yesterday, had a great time. I wasn't bouldering, but saw the Berlin Wall bouldering area. Looked really good, and was in great condition. Very dry, perfect landings, lovely atmosphere. I'd definitely go back there.

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#43 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
April 04, 2007, 09:53:58 am
..in shropshire..

has anyone ever looked at the very soft sludge that borders the severn at bewdley?

Johnny Brown

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#44 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
April 04, 2007, 10:00:32 am
I think its mentioned in the West Midlands guide. Its out of print, but there's an online version somewhere.

Grimer, you are a secretive character. Was that just on a whim or were you passing? I now have your guide, which no doubt would have been of use to you yesterday, and no one to go with as the fool can't get his act together. Plan now is to go next thursday with a bit of a team.

grimer

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#45 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
April 04, 2007, 12:04:34 pm
Did a Boysen hit yesterday, and we usually end up on sandstone somewhere, and it seemed like a good option. Didn't need the guide as we were doing routes. Lovely place. Did Red Square, Marlene and some E4/5 left of that called something to do with Currants, I think. All good, reasonable for the grade. Also top roped Trouble in Toyland. That's amazing, very onsightable. 5b-ish up to a peg at 8m, a move to a really deep peg and smallish cams, a move up then out to the arete and loads of Friend 2-ish things, crux moves back into the groove then easier to the top.


Johnny Brown

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#46 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
April 04, 2007, 01:14:43 pm
Nice. I seconded (poorly) what was probably the second ascent of Cone and Currents back in 04 or 95. I remember a stiff crux off a mono then getting boxed higher up. Toyland sounds good, I'm pissed off the fool has let me down now.

Bonjoy

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#47 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
April 04, 2007, 01:46:48 pm
 Is it true the reason for bailling is he's digging a hole, but it's not deep enough?

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#48 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
April 04, 2007, 03:06:31 pm
Tis indeed true. 

Johnny.  Would the red mist subside if I told you it was drizzling intermittently in Congleton, and I daresay Shropshire will be the same.

grimer

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#49 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
April 04, 2007, 03:43:17 pm
It might do. unless i told him the sun has been shining on uninterrupted blue skies in Manchester all day long.

 

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