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Concentric hand strength (Read 2816 times)

richdraws

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Concentric hand strength
August 06, 2006, 08:56:43 pm
I know many people believe that concentric hand strength is almost worthless for climbing, usually the reason given is nearly every single hand position used in climbing is isometric. However is there any research or experience regarding overall hand strength (crushing, pinching, deadlifting, crimping, gripper use) and climbing ability and/or hand health and susceptibility to injury?

I am asking as I am heavy, weak and injured

Rich

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#1 Re: Concentric hand strength
August 07, 2006, 08:23:43 am
I had to look up concentric strength and found this page.

The video of a guy using a grip master has a touch of the surreal.  And the towel-grip curl exercise looks neat.

I am heavy

I can't answer your question, but this is a good place to start.

Tim Broughtonshaw

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#2 Re: Concentric hand strength
August 07, 2006, 10:56:09 am
Hmm,
       wonder if towel grip pullups would reduce stress on elbows as well.  :goodidea:

Cheers
Tim

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#3 Re: Concentric hand strength
August 07, 2006, 11:33:03 am
wonder if towel grip pullups would reduce stress on elbows as well.  :goodidea:

Wuss.

richdraws

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#4 Re: Concentric hand strength
August 07, 2006, 12:01:35 pm
Thats got to be the cheapest training tool on the market. I tried the towel pull ups, they felt good. I also tried as a one arm hang from the towel, with the extra thickness it was not too easy.

There was definitely something unsavoury about those dudes in the car park.

richdraws

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#5 Re: Concentric hand strength
January 23, 2007, 11:16:26 pm
Sorry to bring this up again but....

There is a Stevie Haston article about Grippers (captains of crush) in which he states Malcolm smith can close a number 2 gripper. I just want to raise again the question...

If your overall hand strength increases by using these devices, or any other, say from being able to close a 140lb gripper to a 220lb gripper, wouldn't the muscle you recruit for your dead hangs be stronger too?

I say this because recruitment training can go a long way but it does slow down as it approaches optimum. I believe (probably incorrectly :whistle:) that climbers limit the amount of fibres they can recruit by only doing static isometric training. It is my belief (again probably incorrectly but I am gonna do my best to test it) that like many sports some people are able to withstand the rigours of their sport and still make solid physical gains. These 'lucky bastards' or 'genetically blessed'  can literally follow any style of training routine and still make solid gains. For the majority of people this is untenable, we need rest, we need plenty or technique style training and time on the rock too.
I am basically preaching Stuart McRoberts theories of physical progression here but am trying to apply them to climbing.

If you can at all help yourself please avoid saying
"just go out and climb"   ;D



Serpico

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#6 Re: Concentric hand strength
January 24, 2007, 10:25:43 am
However is there any research or experience regarding overall hand strength (crushing, pinching, deadlifting, crimping, gripper use) and climbing ability and/or hand health and susceptibility to injury?

I

No studies specifically done for the hand that I know of, but there was one (probably for knee ext) that showed no increase in isometric strength for a concentric training protocol even though there was significant hyperetrophy. If you couple a concentric/eccentric regime for hypertrophy with an specific isometric one for recruitment, then you might get better results than iso alone.

 

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