[Paul B]

Struggling with the move at the end of the traverse leftwards. Is it a full out dyno  to the sharp jug or does anyone have any other sequences. Am getting to this often enough now, just a full on dyno is going to be a hell of a redpoint crux.
Cheers for any info...
 

[dave]

by the look of this photo i'd say you've just found your redpoint crux indeed:

[Paul B]

Cheers dave, although if you look at the photo, about half way down his forearm you can see a white bit, this is a little gaston/thumb sprag, do i use this as an intermediate? i didnt see it till the last attempt of the day.
If it is a dyno its a wild move, both arms both feet off for me i reckon. Very nice route btw, big moves to the flake on good holds then some crimps, then traversing on pockets/slots till the final throw...
Where did you find the piccie?

[dave]

article on cragx from a few years back.

[Paul B]

oh yeah, i remember the one, everything is listed as "kev's project".....etc. Good photo though.

[andy_e]

Yes that dino requires total commitment, just as you start to get tied, not for wimps or people with a heart murmur.

[Houdini]

Yes that dino requires total commitment, just as you start to get tied, not for wimps or people with a heart murmur.

Please!  I have a heart condition!

[Andy Harris]

Speaking of dynos on routes, ther's a great 8b in the Frankenjura called subway (rich S made a ratehr impressive onsite of this last year). You can either do a dirty mono ucut span or in my case a full on backwards double dyno to twin edges on a  45° wall. An absolutely incredible move of which I will try to post a piccy or movie with Bonjoys help. About font 7a+/b but the sort of thing you only normally do at a wall.

Do I get a medal?

[Bonjoy]

  They'd run out of Victoria Crosses

[Paul B]

andy have you done rumble? do you use the undercut as an intermediate?

[Andy Harris]

Hi Paul, afraid I've never been on it but by all accounts it's a proper jump. Rich Heap did it years ago and is a similar height. Most people have trouble with the traverse if my mind serves me correctly. Must have been a pretty outragous move for a route back in the day.

Remember seeing a  picture of Malcom Matheson doing some 6ft dyno on Taipan or similar orange wall.

[Bonjoy]

Mirage 27

[Doylo]

your so on the ball Bonjoy

[Paul B]

Traverse isnt too bad, especially seeing as though there isnt a single crimp in sight its all slots and pockets. Move to get to the traverse line is tricky, featuring the worst hold ive ever seen glued on, big slopey thing with a thumb catch.

[Bonjoy]

your so on the ball Bonjoy

You're not your 

[Paul B]

Got shown the way today... If anyone's interested you dont go so far out left, just go off the good slot with your lh and the sloper (im sure its a crimp but im told otherwise  ) with your right, this reduces the wild swing, still managed to muck it up though...