UKBouldering.com

rites of passage (Read 11994 times)

Scouse D

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1377
  • Karma: +73/-2
#25 rites of passage
March 31, 2006, 10:10:45 am
Quote from: "al"
the orange route thru the steep bit of the wave - a stepping stone for everyone surely?


Cofe told me he did this the other week. I'm waiting for video evidence.

John Cooke

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 209
  • Karma: +3/-0
#26 rites of passage
March 31, 2006, 11:04:12 am
Quote from: "Falling Down"
I reckon you need to have done a fair bit of passage to declare 'rites'...

A bit Peak Centric but that's where I've always climbed...

When I was starting out stuff like Crescent Arete, NTBTA, Joes Arete @ Roaches where the first ones that your could wear on your sleeve.

Then it was Re-emergence, Green Traverse/Dope on a slope, Guerilla Warfare, Hampers Hang.

Then it's West Side, Blind Date, Jerry's Traverse @ Plantation and Seans Problem @ Stoney (still yet to navigate three of these succesfully mind and I'm getting older each year).


Good ones those...

Maybe not all rites of passage but classics at the grade and IMO should be on everyones wishlists. In and out of Peak

Pebble Arete
Crescent Arete
7 Ball
Pebble Wall
Green Traverse
New Jerusalem
The Nose
Demon Wall Roof
T-Crack
Power Allowance or Punker Bunker (Everyones got to have a Tom's Roof tick!)
Yorkshireman
Blockbuster
WSS (Not done it though)
The Terrace
Jerry's Traverse (Stanage)
Bens Ext (Not done either ...yet)

Stacks more but can't think of anymore off the top of my head...

Stubbs

  • Guest
#27 rites of passage
March 31, 2006, 02:28:14 pm
Blockbuster? I don't think is would be at all popular without its Stick It appearance.  If you have blockbuster in, you should definitely have Ben's Groove and Zoo York in too: That area of Caley is full of rites of passge.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9980
  • Karma: +572/-10
#28 rites of passage
March 31, 2006, 02:35:46 pm
Blockbuster was equally popular pre Stick It. Steep things with good landings usually are, or it could have been the photos in Fawcett on Rock

saltbeef

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1456
  • Karma: +51/-5
#29 rites of passage
March 31, 2006, 07:25:49 pm
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
Quote from: "dave"


i would say WSS was bench 7b+.

 Ok you say it's benchmark i.e. middle of the grade (which also makes it V8 BTW). Therefore roughly 50% of the rest of the 7b+s are harder. So give me a list of the harder 7b+s ?????? Consider that a laid down gauntlet.

Sean's problem, blind date, i'll think of some more.

saltbeef

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1456
  • Karma: +51/-5
#30 rites of passage
March 31, 2006, 07:28:41 pm
t crack, brutal arete, and they're 7b. talk to me martin! the storm. autumn. ithink all of these are harder.

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#31 rites of passage
March 31, 2006, 08:34:30 pm
Blockbuster. When I used to climb at caley regular, when I was a proper punter, I always aspired to climb this problem. This was before I knew what the problem was called or had seen it or seen anyone try it. Its a good line IMO. I need to get to caley!

dave

  • Guest
#32 rites of passage
March 31, 2006, 08:55:08 pm
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
Quote from: "dave"


i would say WSS was bench 7b+.

 Ok you say it's benchmark i.e. middle of the grade (which also makes it V8 BTW). Therefore roughly 50% of the rest of the 7b+s are harder. So give me a list of the harder 7b+s ?????? Consider that a laid down gauntlet.


when i say benchmark i mean its deffinetley 7b+ no argument. and to be benchmark it helps to be in the upper segment of the grade, then theres no chance people would think its a lower grade..... but it still wont get upgraded cos it just ain't as hard as 7c.

cofe

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5800
  • Karma: +187/-5
#33 rites of passage
March 31, 2006, 09:29:13 pm
Quote from: "Scouse D"
Quote from: "al"
the orange route thru the steep bit of the wave - a stepping stone for everyone surely?


Cofe told me he did this the other week. I'm waiting for video evidence.


i really ought to start reading the posts on these things rather than looking at the pretty pictures under everybodys names.

al - absolute dynamite that problem. harks back to the good ol days when i had a 3ft walk from work to the foundry...

scouse  - watch out...

blockhead

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 79
  • Karma: +2/-0
#34 rites of passage
March 31, 2006, 10:13:50 pm
The pebble has got to be on there.. forgot about that one. Deliverance too, i wanted to climb that one about 10 years ago.. or whenever it was that one summer came out and it's still on the tick list!

Early doors despite not being a classic was every man and womans first B9 a few years back so i guess by default it has attained the status of a rite of passage.

Don't really get a chance to climb outside the peak much but some things i'd love to do would be rock attrocity, lou ferrino and jerry's roof.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9980
  • Karma: +572/-10
#35 rites of passage
April 02, 2006, 10:43:44 am
Quote from: "saltbeef"
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
Quote from: "dave"


i would say WSS was bench 7b+.

 Ok you say it's benchmark i.e. middle of the grade (which also makes it V8 BTW). Therefore roughly 50% of the rest of the 7b+s are harder. So give me a list of the harder 7b+s ?????? Consider that a laid down gauntlet.

Sean's problem, blind date, i'll think of some more.
t crack, brutal arete, and they're 7b. talk to me martin! the storm. autumn. ithink all of these are harder.

 Is that the best you can do? I think my point is proven. They are ALL easier BTW, with the possible exception of TTMM and Sean's which I haven't tried enough to comment on. Just cos you haven't done something, it doesn't automatically make it harder than something you have. Mostly it just means you're not trying it right.



Quote from: "dave"
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
Quote from: "dave"


i would say WSS was bench 7b+.

 Ok you say it's benchmark i.e. middle of the grade (which also makes it V8 BTW). Therefore roughly 50% of the rest of the 7b+s are harder. So give me a list of the harder 7b+s ?????? Consider that a laid down gauntlet.


when i say benchmark i mean its deffinetley 7b+ no argument. and to be benchmark it helps to be in the upper segment of the grade, then theres no chance people would think its a lower grade..... but it still wont get upgraded cos it just ain't as hard as 7c.


 
 A Benchmark is a standard for comparison, therefore should by typical, middle of the road at that level. If your standard is top of the gradelist, when people use it as a standard they will end up downgrading low end 7cs to 7b+. Two years down the line the old 7c is the new benchmark and the process of downward gradecreep continues. If you meant benchmark for the upper limit of 7b+ then I couldn't agree more, infact that's exactly what I said in the first place  :roll:

saltbeef

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1456
  • Karma: +51/-5
#36 rites of passage
April 02, 2006, 10:26:07 pm
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
Mostly it just means you're not trying it right.

yup, i have the beta, just find them harder. powehumps, the press. those bad boys are harder. just because you found westside harder doesn't mean it is?!

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9980
  • Karma: +572/-10
#37 rites of passage
April 03, 2006, 09:12:27 am
Fair point. In which case it comes down to consensus. I don't think i'm going out on a limb saying WSS is hard at 7b+. That doesn't mean I don't appreciate that in your world it might be a walk in the park. Like someone else said, the eurowads of on the Petzl rock trip might disagree with your assessment.
 Was talking about grit probs really. Let's face it limestone probs tend to be either impossible if you aren't strong enough or fairly piss if you are.

saltbeef

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1456
  • Karma: +51/-5
#38 rites of passage
April 03, 2006, 09:23:07 am
exactly. i don't know if west side is hard, it was my first7b+ in the peak. and i can usually do it everytime i go now, even if i've been somewhere els, though i guess i now just have the knack.

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8851
  • Karma: +275/-42
#39 rites of passage
April 03, 2006, 09:24:48 am
has anyone mentioned the Green Traverse? I think that's a good Rite... I can nearly do it too...

BenF

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2375
  • Karma: +61/-1
#40 rites of passage
April 03, 2006, 12:22:31 pm
Lots of pretty fair suggestions Peakside so far.  Cuban's list is probably the most comprehensive I'd say.

Continuing the gritcentric theme, how about adding:  

Horror Arete (if you climb at Bridies, which most people do at some point, you've gotta do it)
Jerry's Arete (the Bridies one)
Fight on Black (the obvious medium-hard line of the area)
Bob's Bastard (maybe not the best but a good tick for the novice who can't mantel)

And is this just a grit rites, or a UK-wide list?  Maybe we need separate threads for Welsh rites of passage and Lakes, Scotland etc.

webbo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5070
  • Karma: +143/-13
#41 rites of passage
April 03, 2006, 12:36:45 pm
the rites of passage for me back in the day when men were men and sheep were nervous.were the start to wall of horrors,crucifix,crucifix arete,morrels wall and pebble wall.this was before bouldering had been invented in the peak. :wink:

Sypeland

Offline
  • ***
  • stalker
  • Posts: 289
  • Karma: +11/-2
    • http://www.climbersbalm.com
#42 rites of passage
April 03, 2006, 01:40:43 pm
Quote from: "webbo"
the rites of passage for me back in the day when men were men and sheep were nervous.were the start to wall of horrors,crucifix,crucifix arete,morrels wall and pebble wall.this was before bouldering had been invented in the peak. :wink:


Nice list but two problems missing from a list that sums up my youth, Pork chop slab and the classic Flying Arete.

Oh and the long traverse on the bottom of the virgin!

webbo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5070
  • Karma: +143/-13
#43 rites of passage
April 03, 2006, 02:09:15 pm
being rather more ancient than your good self.harry mamill had yet to perform the deed on flying arete when i was battling with the likes of morrels wall.
i think he was the first person i ever saw lunge.

AndyR

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1180
  • Karma: +16/-1
#44 rites of passage
April 04, 2006, 06:52:09 am
Quote from: "webbo"

i think he was the first person i ever saw lunge.


genius
 :lol:

Moo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Is an idiot
  • Posts: 1465
  • Karma: +84/-6
#45 Re: rites of passage
May 01, 2006, 08:34:00 pm
I'd definatley nominate power pinch as a good rite of passage on the bowder stone I'm in love with that place at the moment it's awesome. ;D

Houdini

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6497
  • Karma: +233/-38
  • Heil Mary
#46 Re: rites of passage
May 02, 2006, 08:30:10 pm
Browns' Mantle @ T'Roadside, Pass.   






Grade it yourself.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal