[unclesomebody]

It could very well be dry tomorrow but it was snowing very heavily in matlock this evening. Roads could be terrible.

Ru, this problem is definitely height dependant and I think could be much harder for the shorter limbed folks. I did have a go today and, although I didn't do it, and I will come accross as a loser for saying this, I think it's probably 8A. Then again, I didn't do it so my opinion is worthless. If you go, can you let me know if it was dry.

[SA Chris]

Nib I believe you are correct and right.

[Andy B]

This is a great problem, with fantastic satisfying moves.

were these both one day ascents?

This was the first time I had tried it, so yes a one session ascent, and I think the same for John, but I'm not 100% certain.

[Somebody's Fool]

Fine ascents by both members of the party.  They went to Turningstone Edge good climbers and came back great climbers.  Hats off.

[Jim]

I remember trying this back when i was slimmer with James before he did it. only had a few goes because I quickly realised that it is nails and I couldn't get anywhere on it. really hard body tension moves on the steepest of rock. Well done to both of you, Andy and Jon - your both down as beasts in my book now.

[a dense loner]

and obese in mine

[Somebody's Fool]

Hats off to whoever captioned the photo in this month's Climb.

'Andy Banks repeating River of Life Goose (Font 8a+) Turningstone Edge'

Has Bonjoy been offering Fi's holiday spends to Peak correspondents in return for the written goose?  It certainly makes you wonder...

 

[Monolith]

Or has it just become a Peak-based tourettes-esque syndrome?

[r-man]

I'll blow some more trumpets - Monkey boy and (woz) also repeated this a while ago (though after Bonjoy and Andy). They both thought it was 8a I think, and said it was excellent. Good work people!

[dave]

I can only assume Climb's proofreading team is headed by stevie wonder and david blunkett.

and they've outdone rupert with regard to peak downgrading - Blind Fig 7b+ anyone?

[Sloper]

From the team that gave the first ascent of Parthian Shot to Seb Grieve that's a minor error

[AndiT]

The biggest error ever has to be in RockFax Western Grit where it has the lines all wrong for the Paralogism Roof. From memory it shows Paralogism going where El Mocho's Skin and Wishbones goes, then Antithesis going up Paralogism but then uses a quite from the original guide to say that a side runner is placed in the next route (in the original guide this is a route called Bad of Nails which is a ten foot to the right), the next route described is Crack and Corner 30 metres down to the right! That's a serious 'easter egg'!

[Johnny Brown]

I daresay the average Rockfax reader isn't the type to get on these routes, with or without his trusty photo topo.

From the team that gave the first ascent of Parthian Shot to Seb Grieve that's a minor error

I always assumed that was an intentional slur, despite the grovelling apology.

they've outdone rupert with regard to peak downgrading - Blind Fig 7b+ anyone?

I don't think Blind Fig is much harder than Blind date, though they do require different types of pre-requisite strength. Crimp rats are likely to find the gap bigger than I do, more due to finding Date easier than Fig harder, if that makes sense.

[dave]

I don't think Blind Fig is much harder than Blind date, though they do require different types of pre-requisite strength.

Reading between the lines, do you actually mean you can't crimp and thus find blind date 7c? 

I think real crimp rats would get on fine with Fig, probably easier than footwork-ponies - some guy once showed me a way of holding the right hand bit of the sloper by crimping the tits off the pebble and divot as a stack - it felt like a dave-jug but would have torn my pad apart if i had taken my feet off the ground. i switched back to the openhanding.

[Ru]

Hats off to whoever captioned the photo in this month's Climb.
'Andy Banks repeating River of Life Goose (Font 8a+) Turningstone Edge'

Luckily it wasn't me.

The other downgrading this month is Brachiation Dance which was always a bit soft at 7b+ but seems a bit mean for 7a+.

[Bonjoy]

 GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOSSSSSSSSSSSEEEEEEEE. You know it makes sense!!!!
 In time, with the help of subliminal trickery I hope to implant the word goose into every problem name in the peak

[Bowie]

Quote
From the team that gave the first ascent of Parthian Shot to Seb Grieve that's a minor error

I always assumed that was an intentional slur, despite the grovelling apology.

i would love to say that me and patter deliberately put seb in for a laugh. We did leave him in there when we compiled the lists for comedy value. but then forgot to take him out and replace him with the best climber that ever lived. anyway, we were informed by ote (as was) that the article was proof read but not by a climber - ie the mistake was not noticed.

it was an awful grovelling apology and i loved the fact that we got the most number of complaint lettters. ever!  
 

[dobbin]

The other downgrading this month is Brachiation Dance which was always a bit soft at 7b+ but seems a bit mean for 7a+.

Noted. Fair at 7b I would say. Harder than Rubicon but not +.

[Bonjoy]

Well said that man, Brachiation Goose has always been middling 7b in my opinion

[andy_e]

Blind Fig, Blind Date, there's plenty of opportunity for a Blind Goose...

[AndiT]

Probably better as Goose Fig or Goose Date, so we can still tell which one is which. I can imagine the confusion: 'What you done today?' JB 'Oh, you know, Blind Goose and some other stuff.', 'Oh, which one, the 7b+ one?' JB 'Yeah'

[andy_e]

In other news, somebody unknown has just done the first link-up of these problems to create "Date with a fig-flavoured blind Goose"

[Jim]

I heard JB's too busy building patios these days to climb 

[AndiT]

So I believe!

[dave]

a closer look at the "blind fig" photo makes it clear that he's bot even on blind fig, he's on blind date. so not only is the grade wrong for the caption, the caption is wrong for the problem. so thats a double error.