[John Cooke]

Get em while they're hot!

http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://img2.store.yahoo.co.jp/I/icisp_1866_54525014&imgrefurl=http://store.yahoo.co.jp/icisp/05fiveten-anasazi-velcro.html&h=195&w=160&sz=10&tbnid=Pt3j6jBYZoSI6M:&tbnh=98&tbnw=80&hl=en&start=1&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dnew%2Banasazi%2Bvelcro%26svnum%3D10%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26safe%3Doff%26rls%3DGGLD,GGLD:2004-16,GGLD:en%26sa%3DN

The heals look mint! Unfortunately i'm a La Sportiva convert... Only because the velcros don't fit (are too wide) and the heals on the pinks are whack. If they stick those bad boy heals back on the pinks i might be five ten again. Then again having to change shoes sucks, it takes you weeks to get used to the damn things during which time your climbing suffers.

[hongkongstuey]

i'll hold judgement - the heel on the latest V10's are pants - whilst they have no air pocket they dont grip the foot well and slide off the heel whilst you're climbing.

i've reached a point of complete pissed off'ness with 5.10 (the last few pairs i've had have been utter shite in product quality terms, falling apart soooo quickly) - i'll stick with mad rock from now on

[Bonjoy]

i'll hold judgement - the heel on the latest V10's are pants - whilst they have no air pocket they dont grip the foot well and slide off the heel whilst you're climbing.

 I found this when trying on Galileos. No matter how small a pair I put on, i could slip the boot off my heel with much less force than an average heelhook would exert. :?   All very annoying really, all the elements of the perfect boot are distributed across a range of boots, but none has all of them. The perfect alround bouldering boot shoulds have:
 The best rubber available
 Medium stiffness sole
 Not too much toe downess (V10s let down by this)
 Good shape
 Medium sole thickness
 Good heel profile, with rubber all the way round (no gaps) and sufficiently aggressive to stay on during use.
 Some rubber on upper for toehooking

[Palomides]

Is it just me, or do these look a lot like the old heels?

New: http://img2.store.yahoo.co.jp/I/icisp_1878_16096370

Old:


(Shorter link for the new ones, for all of us without 1040 x 1560000000000 resolution screens)

[andy higginson]

The best rubber available
Medium stiffness sole
Not too much toe downess (V10s let down by this)
Good shape
Medium sole thickness
Good heel profile, with rubber all the way round (no gaps) and sufficiently aggressive to stay on during use.
Some rubber on upper for toehooking

Sportiva venoms in stealth anyone?

and thats anasazis and heels john...

[Soxs]

Evolv Kaos end of story.

[Owen]

I just bought some of those an they're great for edges. I got a mate who swears by sportiva testorosas tho

[webbo]

i tried some evolvs seemed slippy after stealth.you just need a big bag when you use 5.10s so you can carry the different models i.e t.rocks for heel hooks,anasasi mocosans for smearing,velcros for other stuff etc.

[Resonate]

they look pretty much the same...

[moose]

My current climbing shoes are damn-near perfect for my wide feet: La Sportiva Katanas resoled in Stealth.  Some strange voodoo has resulted in shoes with a close yet relaxed fit, allied to better rubber and flexibility than when new.  I got the resole intending to use them as trashy wall shoes whilst my new pair of Stingmas were reserved for the good stuff.  Three months later the Boreals are almost unused - so uncomfortable and insensitive that I can hardly ever bare to put on the clog-like bastards.  Mind you I am fairly sure that if I tried the resole again it would never work out as well.

[Paul B]

I recently purchased a pair of Scarpa Vortex LE's. So far these seem to be pretty damn good, very sensitive and a good fit, the heel isnt great to pull on, but thats slippers in general.

(Does anyone know what the deal is with the LE's? are they stopping making the vortex range after the LE or are the purple ones on the comeback?)

Had a pair of evolv predators, they were fantastic on boards and steep stuff but the rubber let them down a bit.

Think scarpa are doing good things at the minute. Ive only heard praise of the vision range and so far on the Vortex.

[Nibile]

im currently using anasazi velcros, and good ole boreal stinger for the heelhooks.
tried once testarossa and the feeling was truly amazing.

[John Cooke]

im currently using anasazi velcros, and good ole boreal stinger for the heelhooks.
tried once testarossa and the feeling was truly amazing.

Did you cream your pants?  

[Blunk]

Did you cream your pants?

Of course not, he's a pr0n star after all!  

[Nibile]

exactly.
i can bear the truly amazing feeling of testarossa for hours.
im a professional.

[Moo]

just put the heels from the montrail zealots onto a pair of anasazi velcros. that would be instant orgasm teritory.
i believe that the vortexs wont be making a comeback in any shape or from so the les are your last chance to own a pair.

[c.j.d.]

I must admit, Testarossa's are awesome and I also have 'a great feeling with them' but only on very steep territory.  Venoms, on the other hand are the finest shoes around.  Awesome heel, awesome toe hooking capabilities and they look great.  La Sportiva rocks my world.  Ahem...   :wink:

[james]

pair of new healed velcros are available for viewing in the flesh and maybe trying out if you are very lucky, all for the right price of course :wink:

[Percy B]

Tried on new Anastazi Velcro a while back - prototypes though,which were a bit too big for me,and I didn't climb in them.

Here are my thoughts - for what they're worth.....

The new heel is a revelation compared to anything Five Ten have so far produced, and so much better than the old stuff that words fail me. The new shoes have the same front profile (which is the business, obviously) but a mega heel which has an all rubber cup (unlike Sportivas which still have bald patches on the sides of the heel cups - shite for technical heel hooks eg: Brad Pitt).

And best of all, the new boots have the new Onyx rubber. Up until now we've only sampled Onyx on the Gallileo in huge thick slabs. The new velcro is the first really technical Five Ten with this new mega sticky rubber on.

All in all, a recipe for success, I reckon. As a former La Sportiva sponsored type of person, I am familiar with what an amazingly effective heel feels like. Sportiva were the masters of the awesome fitting rock boot heel. Now unfortunately about to be relegated to second position by Five Ten. I never thought I hear myself say it! :D

[webbo]

do'nt you get free shoes from 5.10 :wink:

[Percy B]

Yes. But I ain't bullshittin' just to suck up to sponsors. The new shoes are the biz. If they fit you, you will buy them. Oh yes.

[Palomides]

I hereby admit compulsive shoe-anorakness.

Here's a pic of the new velcros, the new ladies siren, the new lace-up Dragon (as seen on DGs feet in the mooncllimbing vids), a cosmetically changed Galileo (?) and some sort of bumbly trad-boot:


All from http://rockclimbing.com/articles/index.php?id=2150

[Stu Littlefair]

I'm so excited about the new velcros and dragons my dam might burst. Does anyone with the 5.10 knowledge know when we can expect them in our shops? Can I start a lobbying campain to bring the release date forward?

[Stubbs]

The Dragons do look rather good - glad they didn't put a huge amount of rubber on the top, like on the new V10's.

[webbo]

will this mean the end of having to take 3 pairs of shoes out with me or will it mean buying a bigger sack to hold my-
velcros
t-rocks
galileos
moccosans
new velcros
dragons