[moose]

I feel a bit guilty about seeking beta on a V6 (not that it's a lowly grade by my meagre standards) but, after multiple sessions spread out over months, enough is enough.  How do you do this?  It's one of those accessible "classics" that I rarely see anyone on, and have never seen anyone do (a bit like Pebble Wall at Almscliff, but more so).

My current "best" sequence gets me established halfway up the groove in a LHS facing egyptian:

- LH gastoning the slopey boss-thing halfway up the corner,
- LF on an obvious left-wall smear about  1/4 way up,
- RF off one of the right-wall side-pull features (higher up than the LF),
- RH on one of the right-wall side-pulls (either the furthest RHS one or a tiny higher one).

Is this a completely wrong position to be in?  If not, you presumably then have to get your LF on a higher smear: there are some obvious ones not far below a starting crimp/seam on the left-wall.  Just "bouncing" up feels unfeasible (and probably painful).  I have tried swapping hands on the sloper and moving the LH onto the arete of the left wall - to no avail.   Just knowing which way I should be facing would be a great help.  Cheers.....

[Fiend]

Sorry can't remember specific beta but I am pretty sure I made heavy use of the right wall and I think I ended up facing right after the initial squirming. I think I started off trying facing mostly left and using the arete and stuff at first, and then found it was easier trending rightwards - it also didn't feel very thrutchy when I got it, I think there is a pretty sensible sequence that makes it feel soft touch like many Yorkshire problems...

Edit: just had a faint memory that it's not as far to the top as one thinks and I ended up not doing many more moves and just stretching up...

[webbo]

watched dave brickets lady mary do this on sat[i'd given up when i hurt my finger trying to do a one finger sideways handstand abit like that other old bloke in th ku fu vid]
rf in little pocket
rh on good side pullcrimp
lh on crimpon lwall
hop lf up on to one of the smears on lwall
lh to slopey hold in groove
rh goes on to smaller spull[not the highest]press on your thumb
lf goes to higher smear
rh to next spull
rf to first spull eygptsiany type move
press with rh on middle spull and straighten up
reach top and declare its minging[just like we'd said and accept the loan of our mats to bail off :wink: ]

[moose]

rf in little pocket
rh on good side pullcrimp
lh on crimpon lwall
hop lf up on to one of the smears on lwall
lh to slopey hold in groove
rh goes on to smaller spull[not the highest]press on your thumb
lf goes to higher smear
rh to next spull
rf to first spull eygptsiany type move
press with rh on middle spull and straighten up
reach top and declare its minging[just like we'd said and accept the loan of our mats to bail off :wink: ]

this is not much different to how I'm already trying it.... except that I do the "rf to first spull eygptsiany type move" before I try "lf goes to higher smear" (which I never manage).... surely to buggery I've tried that too at some point though?!  Mind you, hopping the LF to the highest smear whilst the RF is just in that tiny pocket doesn't sound like it'll go for me.

For the finish, is the RH moving back down to a lower sidepull? As, if I'm following you right, it's going from the highest sidepull (tiny, barely visible) to the middle one (the one furthest along the RHS).

[webbo]

yep i'm sure she moved her hand down and pressed off her palm.there is a smear just above the little pocket which i was using and worked to get my lf higher.my problem was/is i can't stand grooves, all that fannying around with your feet with nothing to pull makes my teeth curl.

[moose]

Cheers, I'll try it that way next time.  Though I'm fairly certain that I already have done and it didn't go for me.  I suspect there's some kind of fundamental incompatibility problem at work involving femur length and hip design!   I know what you mean about grooves though - I hate all that static tension - the prospect of having your face scraped away should a smear pop.  This one has got under my skin though - I especially wanted to nail it after failing on Micro Corner at Slipstones the day before.

[webbo]

you might be right about leg size and all that.my mate dickie who could just about reach the sloper in the groove from the deck,had major problems getting his lfoot off the floor.its a pity you can't just lay away off your rhand and go for the top.

[moose]

you might be right about leg size and all that.my mate dickie who could just about reach the sloper in the groove from the deck,had major problems getting his lfoot off the floor.its a pity you can't just lay away off your rhand and go for the top.

arse - looks like I'm in the same boat as Dickie as I can reach the sloper from the deck (not that I generally stoop to such things.... except when getting tired).

[uptown]

Must be one of the best groove problems on grit - But what a teaser!

Try cupping the slopey thing in the groove,
once your foots on the obvious foothold high to the right of the groove you can just push it out to the top with your RH.
I didn't need any egyptians.