[Pantontino]

Quality photo of Sean on said route with Ben standing by with his car (can't tell what colour it is as the photo is B/W) on p188 in Power of Climbing. I presume you all own a copy? If you don't, then get hold of one as soon as possible - it's an unintentional comedy classic.

[Bubba]

Amazing that Chris Craggs didn't get a fat-slap for that - and the guy writes guidebooks now :roll:  Still, R*fax seems to like it's chippers.

about the avatars - i managed to delete them all whilst updating the forums. yes, that was a fuckwit thing to do. sorry

[DScuffle]

OTE didn't say that the route was chipped by Chris Craggs.  It said it was an old aid route done by Chris Craggs, that had been chipped.  

It seemed to be sugesting that it was the someone aid climbing the route that broke the holds off.  

I just thought I'd better point this out, as I myself would hate to be labelled as a "chipper" because of someone mis-reading an article about me.

[dave]

word if anyones got a cockfax accoutn they aughta check the old topics cos i'm sure theres some discussions on there about craggs and the bastard etc that i've read before. Wether he chipped it or not simply calling a route "free that you bastards" hardly pains him a picture as a forward thinking kinda guy. presumably that explains the ronhills.

i would have loved moon or welford to do a route entirely on slopey sidepulls up a blank wall and call it "aid that you fat cunts".

[Bubba]

OTE didn't say that the route was chipped by Chris Craggs.  It said it was an old aid route done by Chris Craggs, that had been chipped.

Fair enough but come on...he does the aid route and calls it a deliberately antagonistic name...when people rise to the challenge and are close to freeing it the holds conveniently dissapear... Sorry, but the evidence is pretty strong imho.  

At the time there was no doubt about who chipped it - it's not like there were loads of aid climbers about...I've was practically living at Rubicon at that time and never saw anyone aiding anything. OTE are just being diplomatic - there's no misreading, it's obvious who chipped it to defend their pathetic ego.

[Yossarian]

i would have loved moon or welford to do a route entirely on slopey sidepulls up a blank wall and call it "aid that you fat cunts".

that would have been hilariously funny...

[andy_e]

Quality photo of Sean on said route with Ben standing by with his car (can't tell what colour it is as the photo is B/W) on p188 in Power of Climbing. I presume you all own a copy? If you don't, then get hold of one as soon as possible - it's an unintentional comedy classic.

and it's a pug 205 i presume...
thats a wicked book that is.

oh and for name dropping reasons, jordan has a citroen AX.

[Yossarian]

thats a wicked book that is.

it was certainly a seminal work.  but only in the sense that the majority of its content is wank...

[DScuffle]

OTE are just being diplomatic - there's no misreading, it's obvious who chipped it to defend their pathetic ego.

I guessed there may be more to it than I had read, but I didn't want to be responsible for a mis-quote from a mag that starts a witch hunt.

But if we know who it was......

Burn them, Burn them all.

[DScuffle]

Found this on google cache, it was on the old planet fear web site.

[5/10] From Alan J - Posted on Thu, September 18, 2003 at 10:25am
Zeke is a completely different line. Chris did the aid route, which is roughly where The Bastard now goes. When Ben Moon claimed he had nearly freed the route, Chris went back to take a look. He found lots of chipped holds and chipped them back to what he thought was their natural state. Ben then climbed Zeke to the left.

Whether these holds were chipped, and where they actually were, remains conjecture. The end result though is that the free-climbers have proved their ability and Chris has eaten humble pie.

An old story.

[Bubba]

Chris went back to take a look. He found lots of chipped holds and chipped them back to what he thought was their natural state

Oh for fucks sake :roll:

Oh, so even though he put up a route called "free that you bastards", he claims that somebody else chipped the holds off. Yeah, right.

And how the fuck can you chip a chipped hold back to it's natural state?

[DScuffle]

And how the fuck can you chip a chipped hold back to it's natural state?

This does sound like an interesting concept, maybe the hold on the Joker should have been chipped back on rather than glued :?

Do you reckon certain grit crags could be quarried back to their original state too

[a dense loner]

yes, we've found something that really riles bubba. quality.

chip that you bastards

forum locked :wink:

[Bubba]

Chipping is about as low as you can get in climbing.

[a dense loner]

after sit starts of course

[Bubba]

true. It also riles me that those guys sell guidebooks and two of them are chippers  :evil:

[Johnny Brown]

Good to see us really getting to the route of the cockfax/ ukb beef.

How long before Mick has this as a news item? Entertaining how cockfax has come full circle - back when they started they were all about 'real' climbers who were out there climbing and clipping hard not discussing bolts in bmc meets. Now they produce selective guides for trad bumblers, written by chippers, and don't update their sport/ bouldering guides because its not cost effective.

Good to see karma can screw them even if the BMC couldn't.

[dave]

ditto that JB - ten years ago they were the tearaways, bucking the establishment, rattling a few cages. Now they ARE the establishment, dinosaurs rattling no cages whatsoever, and all the talent are now either striking out on their own or doing BMC guides.

hoisted by their own thingy.

[cofe]

bonjoy - can we please have a friday avo animation of a stegosauraus exasperated at being unable to rattle a cage?

other thing is, with lovely books like the bmc staffs guide the bmc really are putting the 'idebo' back into guidebooks.

[a dense loner]

potard dave potard

[dave]

potard dave potard

petard dense petard

[DScuffle]

Uh :?

[a dense loner]

petard dense petard

not if you've got an oldham accent :wink:

[Bonjoy]

[DScuffle]

Are you guys getting shakespear-ean on our arses, or are you referring to Dave being hoist with one's own petard, if so how come?