[andy_e]

beta? what about us shorties? it looks good and i have no chance of flashing it, just i'll be uop there a lot and will have plenty of time to try it.

[Stubbs]

Right hand palming at top of ramp, left hand on good crimpy rail to left, left foot on higher of two cleaned footholds to left. Face left, hop right foot onto ramp (toes pointing downhill, like an egyptian). Cop crimpy rail with right hand, drop left knee to change egyptian, hop right foot as far up ramp as possible, cross through with left had onto slopey rail, match with right, pull through for good hold above, jobs a good 'un.

hope that makes sense ;-)

[andy_e]

sounds easy when you say it like that...  :?

[dave]

when i did it i held the left hold not on the straight obvious crimp, but with my thumb on the bottom end of the crimp and fingers on a kinda sub-crimp down a left a bit of the main crimp - this was key. pulled on as per the beta above, went RH up into a hold (gaston?) then went over with left for the slopey jug rail. can't remember much more but it was a flash and felt piss. i was following Dutch's beta for the left hand though which helped a lot i recon, plus i was psyched. being taller probably doesn't do you any harm neither.

[Stubbs]

This is a path if you are tall, as reaching through becomes easy, and the egyptian foot beta isn't that important. For shorteez (like me) the key is getting your right foot as high up the ramp as possible. Right hand is indeed a gaston, and imo it's better to use the good bit, rather that trying to gain a little extra height by using the higher rubbish bit.

Alternative if you like jumping is to pull on then go again with your right for the slopey rail, but this is rubbish and somewhat spoils the problem.

[Johnny Brown]

Good beta from dave on the left hand side-pull - listen

Shorties can expect to fall repeatedly just not snagging the slopey rail.

[a dense loner]

like stubbs says don't go to the obvious hold with your right. go a couple of inches lower down n crimp the gaston, then reach over with left

[Jim]

thats the secret word. gaston for right. spend a lot of time on this prob only to piss it when used correct parts of the holds

[jonP]

It's a tough 7a+ if you're short. Use the small crimp as a layaway. Jump for the big sloper & catch it with your right, if you're lucky.

[hongkongstuey]

a picture says a thousand words (so here's a couple of thousand for ya)...

[chappers]

the key to this for me was....doing it on a day when the foot holds out left were not covered in green gunk.

apart from that, sharp crimp for left, gaston for right, right foot up high as. upper of 2 left foot holds. cross through with left for the top.

fell off it over and over again trying to "go again" with my right for the top. then did it next go with left beta.

[andy_e]

hmm, it sounds easy when explained.... but doing it's different. we'll see next weekend...

[sidewinder]

Was at Caley for the first time yesterday, without a guide, unless you count Northern England (I am choosing not to).  Had a look round and was trying a few things.

Anyway I did this by simply grabbing the 'gaston' with my left hand, ie using it as a sidepull/crimp rather than a gaston, right hand on the low rail, with a right foot on the rail and left foot flagging in the air (side wall was damp) I was able to pull through to the next holds and easy finish.

Is this a lanky/disallowed method?  I can't work out as some of the posts refer to starting both hands on the thin rail, others talk about already having one hand on the Gaston (Chappers post) and the photo.

Thanks in advance, even if it is to shoot me down.

[Robl]

Key for me was to really use the thumb on the right hand gaston, stopped the bar door effect crossing through for the top, as my feet had to leave the left wall.
I'm 5ft 6 and it took me an age.   

[Stubbs]

Is this a lanky/disallowed method? 

This is a nice one mover, but it ain't NJ.  You need to start either with 2 hands on the horizontal rail to the left, or LH on the rail and RH on the low ramp.

I hadn't seen those pictures before: where there's a little heather growing just to left of the flatties above the sloper rail, there's now a big round jug, I assumed it had been chipped, but maybe the heather had dissolved the rock?

[SA Chris]

Can heather do that? Does it have sap like the blood of an Alien?

[andy_e]

The heather probably grew out of the dirt collected in the hole and was therefore oscuring it surely?

[sidewinder]

This is a nice one mover, but it ain't NJ.  You need to start either with 2 hands on the horizontal rail to the left, or LH on the rail and RH on the low ramp.

Confirms my suspicions ie no hand on the 'gaston hold' to start, does anyone use a sequence that involves using left hand on the 'gaston hold'.  Anyway will get back on it next time I am in Yorkshire, hopefully the left wall will also be drier.