[(woz)]

Um, not having looked at a climbing mag for months I cant really tell you what Dave commented on, but I can have a guess. It's probably to do with the Lewis boulders. Distant Early Warning got slapped so hard by a better sequence from Dave, it went from 7c/7b+ down to 7a+, as did a couple of sitter problems. Dave had a right scrap with Trace Element but commented to me at the time that he thought spot on Font 8b, with a paralizing crux he couldn't manage, though I'm betting he'll be back. T'was great to watch another person tangle with it. Not sure if Dave mentioned or has tried Hyperballad yet but reckoned visually, it's harder than the Font 8b+ I've suggested. I think, the downgrades are mainly in the Font 7a to 7c+ area, which has the potential to start another forum rant, where I repetitivly keep saying, it's my fault for adding lines when my tips are shredded & Im knackered from focusing on the hard stuff. Which it is, but then grades are simply how it felt o the day & not set in stone, unlike the lines, which are. So the adjustments, some of which will go up, some down, is how things settle. It's great that Dave takes the time to tour about & add another view. Now, lets hope some of the Coire stuff sees the same attention. Hopefully he will get Venom Jag this year, if he hasn't already. It seems to be Daves own personal nemisis on Skye.

[moose]

the downgrades were at Port Nis.  Early Distant Warning 7c+ went to 7a+ and it's 8a variation down to 7b.  Sunyata (Trace Element area) went from 7b to "more like 6a".

[andy_e]

it's just recently all the beta guides have been on stuff that even i could do wiothout beta. crucifixion waas the last hard one.


i should learn english...

[SA Chris]

You should make up some beta cheaters for Scotland Andi, as to you everything up here is easy.

[Johnny Brown]

I'd like to see Si O' do one. In fact I'll volunteer to go up and photograph it. Always like to visit Skye in september.

[Bonjoy]

I note from 8a.nu that Si O'conor (who was originally Simon Conor) has now become Si ÓConchúir :roll: . Goes well with the cod celtic ramblings and dirty sasenach bashing.

[dave]

I'd like ben heason do a beta cheater for brad pit. I could do with all the help i can get on that problem, and in particular i'm intrigued to see how this sequence works:

[dobbin]

he must have fantastic tension to be able to get that right leg out like that...

[Johnny Brown]

He must have it proper wired too. It looks boiling.

[(woz)]

especially under all that hair...

[tommytwotone]

I'd like ben heason do a beta cheater for brad pit. I could do with all the help i can get on that problem, and in particular i'm intrigued to see how this sequence works:

some on Dave, think about it...

right heel up next to right hand
turn left hand over, palm down
left foot next to left hand
stand up

and that's magic.

[SA Chris]

especially under all that hair...

I think he is trying the original way; just a big 'fro for the top.

[account_inactive]

BOM BOM!

 

[dave]

some on Dave, think about it...

right heel up next to right hand
turn left hand over, palm down
left foot next to left hand
stand up

and that's magic.

I like it........not a lot.

[andy_e]

actually i was thinkling of a beta cheater for hank's wall but you guys would only shun me for liking quality lines in a manmade environment.

[Johnny Brown]

is it not polished enough yet then?

[dobbin]

is it me or is all this 'look at my amazing sequence of photos' not missing the point of bouldering - the solving of problems?

[Ru]

actually i was thinkling of a beta cheater for hank's wall but you guys would only shun me for liking quality lines in a manmade environment.

Hanks Wall climbs nicely, but it's also a totally squeezed in eliminate. Any Beta Cheater that starts by telling you what you're not allowed to use is going to look funny in the same series as the Crease Direct etc.

[account_inactive]

is it not polished enough yet then?

Indeed

[Fiend]

Which it is, but then grades are simply how it felt o the day & not set in stone, unlike the lines, which are.

Except, according to some people who have tried to 1. Find them, 2. Find how such a bit of rock could be climbed, and 3. Follow Si's sequence, they aren't.

Fair come back though, I can imagine someone who spends his time beasting himself on V13-V15s having a hard time grading lowly V8+s and whatever....

[andy_e]

You should make up some beta cheaters for Scotland Andi, as to you everything up here is easy.

Look dude, i was being tounge-in-cheek when i sadi everything was easy, obviously it's not, but the grades were so much softer than back in lancashire, font 6a= font 5 and so on, so i was surprised when i flashed something which we would only grade as V2 in lancashire, and the project that was marked on the topo was easy as i thought. i never meant to cause any offence (not in a serious way, more in a jocular matey way) to any one person, so just chill dude! justa young tearaway who doesn't mean what he says exactly. hyperbole.

[Si O'Conor]

...

[Bonjoy]

Off to see the wizard?

[dave]

let me guess, another series of full arm length english 7c dynos between mono knifeblades above a nasty drop, leading to an easier section of 7a moves up an 80foot loose headwall above the sea? the only limit is your imagination, thats what i say.

[Si O'Conor]

...