[andy_e]

cheers dude.

what grade is it? there's a line of brushed holds that looks about V2/3, is it that one?

[clm]

that is a gash little slab that you pass as you struggle in minor pulmonary oedema up to the crag.

does anyone (ie dense) know what the high ball slab/blind flake/rib that is on a large boulder actually in the bed of the stream high up near the crag - not having a guide i dont know.

[andy_e]

struggle in minor pulmonary oedema

weakling. you wanna run up there in skate shoes  :shock:  :shock:  :shock:  it's death on a teacake.

cheers anyway!

[a dense loner]

directissima's just to the right in that photo isn't it? not been there for a long time. it's a bog for 360 day's a year

[andy_e]

directissima's just to the right in that photo isn't it? not been there for a long time. it's a bog for 360 day's a year

no. that picture is above the fish boulder, over towards the stream bed, in the opposite direftion from directisssima. what grade is directissima?

[a dense loner]

is it? god knows then

[Johnny Brown]

Check out Dense getting wimberry beta from andi e   Whatever next?

[a dense loner]

check out confusion overload, can't remember what grade clms on about either. think it's 5b, heard E3 mentioned, can't remember from what source but that's nonsense.
btw andi_e for your guide checking purpose num 33 is 7b not 7a as ru put. quite amusingly ru sent me a pm saying carl reckoned 7b not 7a, to wit i replied i said it was 7b no one mentioned 7a so it was all cleared up and ru then put it in as 7a. how i laughed when i first read the guide. steve's wall 7a+, as far as i know, is unrepeated and certainly looks like it may be worth a little more. worth looking into.
if you use V grades i shall kill you while you are sleeping

[Pantontino]

Dense I suggest you get yerself a copy of this month's Climber - some tosser from Llanberis has only gone to Wimberry with Ben Moon and Streaky Desroy and covered the place in ugly V grades.

Makes you sick doesn't it. :wink:

[Johnny Brown]

Go on - for the icing on the cake - tell us Ego weighed in at V8+??

Dense get back to your wiring the afternoon has potential...

[a dense loner]

nooooo, you may be finding a sheeps head in your bed. :wink: again

luckily i don't read mags unless forced to, i may be forced to, damn. you should get one of the dyno boys over. did streaky rock an 80's look at wimberry? heard ben did a couple of 7c's, which one's? for my own vanity really, you know how it is :D

[a dense loner]

no wiring today! looking at coming over shortly.

as a disclaimer ego uses a heel. since that part of the fish boulder is an eliminate wall my prob still stands

[BenF]

btw andi_e for your guide checking purpose num 33 is 7b not 7a as ru put.

Sorry, I'm at work and don't have my guide with me (strangely enough).  What problem is this?

steve's wall 7a+, as far as i know, is unrepeated and certainly looks like it may be worth a little more. worth looking into.

I've done it and so has Mick Adams.  I found it hard and although I wasn't with Mick when he did it, he probably found it less hard because he's like forty-six times better than me.  No help from me there then.

[Pantontino]

You won't be disappointed with Streaky - he dressed 'nice' in a dayglo shirt, head band and big white flares in a Yosemite circa 1970-something stylee. Some things just never go out of fashion.

Ben did that violent little 7c on the side of the sloping top boulder, and then Stateside sans chipped foothold.

He also failed on Miles' Slab, although he had done it before.

I pointed out the obvious sit start project on the Fish Boulder - I'm sure he'll be back for this one.

As for Ego - unfortunately I didn't have enough room to pay homage to that particular masterpiece. Although I believe Climb are interested in doing a 'how to' photo shoot on it. You got a free afternoon Dense? If so, I'll tell Simmo you're keen.

[andy_e]

nah ego's gone in as V2 5c

[webbo]

nah ego's gone in as V2 5c

maybe you'd like to demonstrate it then or would you need supergluin to the rock in order to strike a pose.

[andy_e]

nah ego's gone in as V2 5c

maybe you'd like to demonstrate it then or would you need supergluin to the rock in order to strike a pose.

Sorry i must have been asleep

that meant to read:

nah ego's gone in as V9 (6c)
 

[Johnny Brown]

Perhaps you need to do a search on various grading debates - V9/ font 7c is generally regarded to equate to uk tech 7a. Unless of course, its a traverse or similar stamina based prob...

[andy_e]

Perhaps you need to do a search on various grading debates - V9/ font 7c is generally regarded to equate to uk tech 7a. Unless of course, its a traverse or similar stamina based prob...

oh? i thought it was more like so:

V6 6b/c
V7 6c
V8 6c
V9 6c/7a
V10 7a

and therefore because it gets f7b+ it would be 6c ish

[Johnny Brown]

It's good, but it not quite right...

The harder 7b+s, i.e. those that equate to V9 not V8, represent the bottom end of Uk 7a. Examples being West side story and Blind date, both of which were among the first problems to be given 7a in the peak.

The transition from 7a to 7b is less established as uk grades were abandoned around the time it was reached (late eighties - early nineties) now known as 'the great grade schism'. At this time Malcolm was claiming Uk 7c/ 8a for his hardest board problems whilst the yorkshire set had decided uk 7a was a silly idea and 7b a big joke. Luckily with the context of hindsight we can see malcolm was overgrading a little and the yorkshire set were confused. Nowadays bottom end uk 7b is considered to be top end font 8a/ v11, uk 7c top end font 8b+/ v14. Of course Malcolm had the last laugh as all the problems above V14 in britain at the time were indeed in his bedroom, and woebetide anyone who went wandering in thinking they could downgrade them.

[a dense loner]

Ben did that violent little 7c on the side of the sloping top boulder

that's what i was fishing for :wink:

sometimes it all seems worthwhile

[webbo]

It's good, but it not quite right...

The harder 7b+s, i.e. those that equate to V9 not V8, represent the bottom end of Uk 7a. Examples being West side story and Blind date, both of which were among the first problems to be given 7a in the peak.

The transition from 7a to 7b is less established as uk grades were abandoned around the time it was reached (late eighties - early nineties) now known as 'the great grade schism'. At this time Malcolm was claiming Uk 7c/ 8a for his hardest board problems whilst the yorkshire set had decided uk 7a was a silly idea and 7b a big joke. Luckily with the context of hindsight we can see malcolm was overgrading a little and the yorkshire set were confused. Nowadays bottom end uk 7b is considered to be top end font 8a/ v11, uk 7c top end font 8b+/ v14. Of course Malcolm had the last laugh as all the problems above V14 in britain at the time were indeed in his bedroom, and woebetide anyone who went wandering in thinking they could downgrade them.

 

[Ru]

Ego/Dark Matter is fair at V9/7c I think. I thought it was harder than the fish arete sitter by a nudge or two. I only knocked it down to 7b+ as Rob barker did it as a warm up, but as Dense once said, what does that prove?

As for that 7a/7b thing, give it what you think. When I was doing the Wimberry section I think I had gone into a bit of grade blindness after bouldering on grit virtually every day all summer.

I also did Steve's Wall, it may be a bit harder than 7a+, but I thought it ok at the time. Again, proves little.

[andy_e]

As for that 7a/7b thing, give it what you think. When I was doing the Wimberry section I think I had gone into a bit of grade blindness after bouldering on grit virtually every day all summer.

on the shell shot? i put it in as a highball V7

[a dense loner]

what are you talkin about? there are 2 4c's n a shit , escapable , eliminate 5c on that boulder. apart from the backside which falls apart when you touch it