[dave k]

Have been trying and failing on this problem for a long while. Have just watched the video on Moon doing it on his website. He uses the right side of the crack for a starting handhold and uses a foothold that is also pretty much in the crack. I assumed these were out and have been trying to start underclinging up to the sloper of workhard and moving up from there. Just wondering if anyone else has done it and how.

I guess the crux is still the final 2 moves, which seem well reachy.

On a separate note who is the shortest person to climb workhard? Superb problem.

[JR]

yeah i thought they were out n'all, makes the first bit way easier, and was confused when i saw that video.  Kim had a winge aswell when i told him.

[JR]

in fact in RU's guide it even says

"Eliminate - no crack!"

[dave]

i've always tried playhard like you say without the crack. seems daft to use the crack, the whole idea being that you're climbing the wall right of the crack, hence without the crack - that sequence on benmoon site is basically just a very bad way of going a 5b problem!!!

[tommytwotone]

I seem to recall seeing him out when a mate was trying it and using the crack (ie like in the vid on the site) - can't remember the exact wording but apparently Mr Moon said that doing it that way he'd "basically got it".

question?

[cofe]

does anyone else use the floor as a foothold when trying submergence?

[Paz]

Someone mentioned a crack? Maybe the direct move is piss but still fall offable, so you can get more go's on the hard bit which is the bit he's probably bothered about, by coming in from the left.  If he hasn't done it direct then he can't tick it in Ru's guide which is the most important thing but the man knows what he likes - what was the top out on that problem at Bowden he didn't want to do on Stick It like?

[Andy Harris]

Ben has always done this problem like this but I do it off the u'cut. I'll ask Jason Myers when I next see him and clear that up for good. Let's be honest though, the 1st 2 moves make no real difference to the grade of the problem. The lock up is by far the meat of the problem. This is made consdierably harder if you have to do a rockover to the top rather than being able to reach direct (7c+ for sure, the straight up being 7c?).

Justin Plumtree & Mike Lea have both done said problem (5ft 5).

[ferret]

where do ya put yor feet if the cracks out and yor 5'5"??? im 5'7 and perplexed buy this fuckin problem, please help

[Ru]

The "no crack" thing was more about making the rules for the top bit of the problem definitive, because if you then say you can use the crack to start, you will inevitably get some folks who use it all the way through. For my money, using the crack to start doesn't really make it any easier, but as the whole thing is an eliminate anyway, you may as well avoid it.

Anyway, you can do it if you're short (I'm 5'5") without using the crack for hands or feet, but I honest to God can't remember the sequence. Soz.

[Jim]

I've always heard that using the crack as starting hand hold is in but never for the feet, use the break for the feet. will make the start slightly harder not using the crack but nothing to write home about

[Andy Harris]

Shorties sequence
LH in low flat undercut, RF in break, pop RH up to left hand end of slopey edge, LF in obvious edge above break, lock up to dish pebble thing with LH, RF to smear in middle of wall, match feet around here, RF way up and out right to sloper, hard rock over to ripples below top with RH, udge agin to better sloper and LH to good bit on top.

More exhausting to write it than do it.

[andy bowie]

the way you are climbing at the moment mr harris i don't doubt it! Mr busby was suitably delighted with his 'homage de busby' for his 30th...