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Unjust (Read 3367 times)

andy_e

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Unjust
June 07, 2005, 11:01:43 am
yo. do you mantle the big hold on the r or something?
word, its just me being short then, or do you use those small crimps?

clm

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#1 Unjust
June 07, 2005, 06:08:54 pm
only one big edge in the break allowed (best using left), can use undercut to pull on. get small crimp on right then step up until can drag/pinch the nose then stand up to reach the big ledge then wobble on up to the top.
its v eliminate.

Jim

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#2 Unjust
June 09, 2005, 02:38:25 pm
is this the 6a at brownnose left end of the bay of digitation? (can't be arsed to get giant bible type guidebook to look)

squeek

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#3 Unjust
June 09, 2005, 03:02:51 pm
Yes it is.  Quite a good little problem.

r-man

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#4 Unjust
June 09, 2005, 03:03:01 pm
Yep, that's the one. Haven't tried it myself - it is very eliminate.

What other good 6as are there at Brownstones? (I'm bored, and the bible is on the floor right here...)

Boopers (up the face at the top-end. Wonder if anyone's done a sit-start..)
Playback (the face right of Layback)
Nexus Dyno
Verdigris (right of the big slab at the pool area.  great moves.)
Verdinand (the wall to the right, eliminating the jug on the arete)
The Traverse into and along the Hank's wall area all the way to the end of the rock. Good that.

Hmm, there are more, especially on the long back wall, but those are the best, I reckon.

clm

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#5 Unjust
June 09, 2005, 06:54:08 pm
parabola direct is amazing.  batter than all of the above.  you are right abotu the back wall.  qualitee.

r-man

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#6 Unjust
June 09, 2005, 07:31:35 pm
Not that keen on Parabola Direct. Just the one tricky move going for a sidepull isn't it?

My favourite out of those is Verdigris - it's a bit squeezed in, but it's got the best crux moves. Nice and technical too. When I was once shown round the crag by a local who had eliminates coming out of his ears, he dismissed verdigris as being totally undergraded, probably at least 6c, and only ever done by Ryan Pasquil.  :shock: Bonkers that. It just takes a little figuring out and it's well worth it.

andy_e

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#7 Unjust
June 10, 2005, 12:15:18 pm
word, i'll try the mofoing sitstart to boopers today, doesn't look to hard.

r-man

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#8 Unjust
December 30, 2005, 01:27:16 am
Quote from: "clm"
only one big edge in the break allowed (best using left), can use undercut to pull on. get small crimp on right then step up until can drag/pinch the nose then stand up to reach the big ledge then wobble on up to the top.
its v eliminate.


Why only one edge in the break? From the guidebook I assumed you just avoided the ledges to left and right? Anyway, had a play on this recently. Great little problem and nice to get warmed up on as there are a million ways to do it. Maybe a million and one.

Some good eliminates too. Apparently going straight from rh undercut and low lh sidepull to the pinch is V7, though I only had  few goes - pulling on that undercut is v. fingery.

Also the dyno from the poor sloper on corn mantel to the ledge on unjust is brilliant. Spent ages trying this. Unhelpful footholds, but it's definitely possible. Probably V8 or something, fantastic move. Next time gadget.

 

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