[RopeBoy]

Okay, not the household type, but the E3 6a route/highball at Stanage, just left of the Plantation.

The guide book describes an "ingenious" crux. Now I had a little play on this but not having a mat and having other fish to fry I left it after finding the moves clearly harder than 6a.

Any tips? I guess resident Stanage expert Johny Brown will have the beta on this.

I can heartily recommend this area as a little detour from the crowds, some real gems to be had for just another 5 mins walk from the Plantation, go on, you know you can do it.

J :-)

[grimer]

Advice is bring a mat next time. It will feel like 6a if you got one, otherwise it feels a bit high. As for moves, it was just a case of using the holds and not being a little short fella.

[cofe]

were you able to fry your other fish?

[Paz]

Can't really remember it clearly even though I did it a few times, but it's summink like rock up using an pocket as an undercut to start, breath, build your feet up, seem to remember your right foot goes higher than the obvious holds, then reach for something and stand up on your right foot before further fiddling with feet.  Think either the pocket you reach (you can reach, right?) or the hold you reach off it this is well slopey but the move works as your weight's on your feet by now and you don't have to pull on the holds especially, feels fine for 6a.  Good prob.  You're right it's a great area especially for slab meisters.  

Someone show me something as good as that in Yorkshire.

Anyone know how you do the start of the 6b on the right to the slot(?) thing without just being even lankier than me?

[dave]

thanks for that great beta ben.

[RopeBoy]

were you able to fry your other fish?

lol, yeah, kinda, did something I'd backed off in the past (but it was very damp at the time) and something new, which was nice.

J

[RopeBoy]

Paz; mmm, sounds like I was trying it completely wrong, I'll have to print that beta out, I've got a crap memory! :-)

Grimer; yeah, a nice thick mat and grow a couple of inches.

We found it odd because Sithee Direct felt dead easy and is meant to be about the same grade.

Cheers to all.

J

[Johnny Brown]

Yeah sithee is more straight forward.
Can't remember owt precise on DIY, but the most obvious sequence isn't the best. Either way, from the flake you reach for a sloper with your right which it is disappointing, especially if its warm, whilst doin something to get your foot on the flake, which you can't see cos you've got your nose against the rock trying to make that sloper feel better...
Torture garden (to the right) is mega with a big rockover into a pocket. The baffling start is too good to give away, my beta is persevere

[RopeBoy]

mmm, yummy, more food for thought.

The start to Torture Garden looks quite awkward if you're short.

Also in the vicinity, how good is Tom-cat Slab, what a delightful little solo.

J

[cofe]

tom cat slab is well nice. love those pockets on sithee.

[Paz]

my beta is persevere

At the problem or at growing?

[Johnny Brown]

two choices: jump or be cunning

[clm]

cunning doesnt work with hips like mine...neither does the move past the pocket.

[Paz]

Wear platform shoes?  Do they take a stealth resole?  Now that's cunning.