UKBouldering.com

The Inch Test (Read 2951 times)

Andy Harris

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 383
  • Karma: +34/-0
The Inch Test
May 20, 2005, 11:25:50 am
Last night I did The Inch Test in WCJ and was wondering if anyone else has? Whilst it's not bouldering it is bouldering on a rope. I don't think I've ever done a route that was so similar to climbing on the cragx board at the school (albeit with slightly more painful holds), probably Font 7b+/c with a few moves before and after. Classic old school crimping nastyness made all the better by being done in the hey day.

I thought it was 8a+ for sure. I don't think I've ever done an 8a anywhere in the world that was this hard. Would be interested in what anyone else has to say. Zippy & Christian felt it worth 8a+ too.

There's a reasonable 7c+ to the left from Mr Welford (Eat the Rich) which is also a decent tick.

cheers  Andy

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1973
  • Karma: +120/-0
#1 The Inch Test
May 20, 2005, 11:54:48 am
Been meaning to go and do it for a while, but I've not actually tried it yet. One for after the exams. I know that some some strong peak old skoolers have failed to do moves on it, ie ones that have climbed 8b+. Is eat the rich the one with the massive glued hold just ovedr the bottom bulge?

Andy Harris

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 383
  • Karma: +34/-0
#2 The Inch Test
May 20, 2005, 12:03:33 pm
Eat the rich does in deed have 1 of the biggest glued on holds in the Peak. There's something about pulling on Sika, I like it!
On IT fell off with hand in last jug on 1st rp and thought I'd never be able to get through the bottom again. Thankfully got it next go so no more treking up to the upper circle. Think you'll like this route so let us know how it goes.
When do your exams finish? Give me a ring and we'll catch up.  Andy

Buoux 8C

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 222
  • Karma: +9/-3
#3 The Inch Test
May 20, 2005, 05:01:19 pm
is this the route that is up in the trees on the right hand side of the path if you walk past rubicon, salar etc towards raven tor then their are a few routes up on the right hand side?
if not where abouts is this route and what the the routes off the path on the right?

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1973
  • Karma: +120/-0
#4 The Inch Test
May 20, 2005, 07:04:15 pm
Yes those are the ones. There's a short wall with three bolted routes on it. The one with the huge glued up jug is Eat the rich, and to the right is the Inch Test. There's not much else there.

Andy Harris

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 383
  • Karma: +34/-0
#5 directions
May 24, 2005, 08:37:36 am
The 1st crag after Rubicon on the right is Lamegeyer butress with loads of old school trad and old E5 6b/c routes (it's just past Moat butress on the left. The upper circle (IT) is a good walk from here high on the right (you pass some other stuff you can easily see from the path but you need to go further past the cornice. If you get to vision butress you've gone to far.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal