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Milestone: Tormented evaporation start beta (Read 1524 times)

Danny

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Was trying this yesterday and it's a real gem of a problem...
does anyone know what the proper start is? The guide sez "feet on the low jammed block" but there are two blocks, one big on the right and one small on the left.
Also, do you start with the RH on the undercut at the bottom of the bloc, or the undercut about 1ft above this?
The reason I ask is because its an awesome problem, but the start seems a bit gash, contrived and awkward?

Cheers all

Pantontino

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I haven't actually done this problem, so my description was based on a quick look at it, and a clarification of the starting position from Dave Towse, who made the first ascent. (It is entirely possible that I misquoted him.)

I would always favour the most logical starting position - anything contrived should be dropped.

If I find time I'll go and have a look next week, but do let me know if you suss a 'logical' method/starting position.

Have you done/tried King Creole - I only ask because I can't think of anybody who has done it apart from me. I think the starting holds take drainage - maybe that's why it gets ignored, or maybe it is just another shite filler problem? (I thought it was rather good.)

Danny

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For some reason I couldn't find King Creole, that area seems to be ridden with hidden caves.
If, as you say, it takes drainage then I could well have missed it, there were a couple of things that looked OK, but I dismissed them as being unclimbed due to the amount of moss on the holds. I'll make a point of having a proper look next time I'm there.

 

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