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crouching tiger, hidden sequence? (Read 1975 times)

dave

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crouching tiger, hidden sequence?
April 05, 2005, 12:32:11 pm
Anyone got any idea what the crack is with this problem at kyloe dans la foret?

was there yesterday, had a look at it. Given V8 in the guide, but previously V10 i think. seems to be a massive dyno off low pockets to a pocket high on the right next to the crack (of gloom) followed by an easy finish. was a bit confused at that, seemed a bit stiff given the starting holds and the fact the top pocket ain't great and its a mile to jump. but then theres also a big slopey sidepull/rib thing way out left, and the usual kyloe smattering of tiny non-holds on the wall. The pdf topo says only "A popular problem up the wall left of Crack of
Doom." I can't see it being that popular at V8...but hey. Anyway then what makes it even more confusing is that in the pdf topo theres a photo of the Earl on it, but with left hand in the high pocket - how the fuck does that work? Is the sloper to the left a different problem/project?

So does anyone have the knowledge? Not cos i'm dying to go back and try it, more that i just can't get me head round what is what.

P.S. i also assume the tiny pockets above the start of the diagon crack of monty pythons is also a sick project?

cheers fellaz

Andy Harris

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#1 crouching tiger, hidden sequence?
April 05, 2005, 12:45:14 pm
Dave, I'm pretty sure you start with right hand on the arete paste and slap up with left hand (ie. it's not a pull on problem.) Obviously no bridging out on the side wall. Was this dry on Monday, was completely soaked on Saturday? Does look a great problem.

Did have a go at the project immediately left but its too hard for me. Start on that baeutiful sidepull out left, rock into the tiny undercut in the middle of the wall, build your right foot up and heel back to the sidepull then big reach to a small pocket with left then into top of CTHD. Somewhere in the 8b or harder region would be my guess.

dave

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#2 crouching tiger, hidden sequence?
April 05, 2005, 01:20:44 pm
well thats a relief in a way, for a minute i thought i was looking at a 7foot vertical dyno off bi-pockets to a toss hold to do a V8. I never even considered that the arete of the crack was "in", as there was no chalk on it, and as the pdf says "wall left of crack". Maybe steve crowe will see this and make it a bit more clear in the guide. (also steve, i noticed ss to that thing next to australia crack at kyloe out is given V8 7c+, typo?).

that project off the sloper sidepull looks good, was wondering how that tiny undercut came into it. ANd yeah it was all bone dry there, even that "playing rudies" bit was dry which was always wet when i'd been before. only wet bits were the tops, like the flourescent slimey bits above the finishes. also it only started to rain when we were finishing up, then continued to chuck it down right until we got back to the car then it stopped and the sun came out.

Bullitt

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#3 crouching tiger, hidden sequence?
April 14, 2005, 02:47:53 pm
Its a funny one Dave, the way we were shown by the locals was to pull on using a hidden pocket in the arete for your right and an undercut for your left. Pop up with your left to the slopey pocket then do a cross though move on razorbaldes to get the jug.  About 7a+ that way, however without the hold on the arete its fooking nails! i.e. undercut mono horror! :shock:

Cheers

Bullitt

 

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