Still, strange that it hasn't been repeated - there must be loads of mutants knocking about the Peak capable of this sort of standard.
QuoteOut of interest what gear is needed for Equilibrium, is that the only bit of gear on the whole route that James has in or is their some higher up, if so where is the gear? did he take any falls on lead?can someone be specific with the sizes etc? and how easy the gear is to place?Couple of cams in the break where James is above, then another in the pocket after the hard climbing to protect the top.James can probably fill you in with the exact sizes.He didn't take any lead falls - the move he sketched on was the slap to the pocket. You wouldn't want to fall off that move.Good luck for the on-sight.
Out of interest what gear is needed for Equilibrium, is that the only bit of gear on the whole route that James has in or is their some higher up, if so where is the gear? did he take any falls on lead?can someone be specific with the sizes etc? and how easy the gear is to place?
So you actually traverse away from the arete to place the gear then traverse back to finish up the arete? Whats to stop you taversing another move and placing a cam higher up in the leftwards crack? hence having even higher gear?
Im only going by the pics on this site so may be totally wrong, but surely if would be better but obviously alot scarier for someone to climb the route without this gear?
Also the high pocket which contains some more gear, do you have to use this for your hand? if so how do you place the gear? or is it easier than it sounds?