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Font 8a (Read 76436 times)

Nige C

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Font 8a
February 15, 2005, 07:01:32 pm
Was wondering how many climbers at a guess in the UK have climbed font 8a. (>100??)
  More specifically, how many in the North Wales area are currently capable of it?
  I am looking for this info. for my Sports Science Research project rather than to boost some ego's.....  :D
  Cheers,
    Irish Nige

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#1 Font 8a
February 15, 2005, 07:22:07 pm
Probably not as many as you would think!

What sort of research are you doing?  Would be interested to hear more about it.

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#2 Font 8a
February 15, 2005, 07:49:14 pm
In the UK, somewhere between 50 and 100. (it was more than 50 when I wrote that 'State of the art' article for OTE in about 2001 I think)

in N Wales;

CJD
Katz
Nodder
Neil Dyer
Sam Cattell
Danny Cattell
Chris Doyle
Paul Higginson
Adam Hocking
Paul Houghoughi

and possibly Pete Robins - can't remember if he has actually done Duel.

and, of course, you.

A bakers dozen.

Nige C

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#3 Font 8a
February 15, 2005, 08:04:28 pm
Well I'm in no fit state to climb at the moment (am afraid to, thought i was gonna be lynched after pulling the hold off in parisellas  :oops:  ) a few more months though....

  Basically I will be looking for elite climbers (those who have the current ability to climb font. 8a or above) to take part in a project looking at different ways of recovering between boulder problems (there are probably better ways to recover more quickly and fully than just sitting around) however I'm out to prove this.
  It will be specific to international format bouldering comps where you have 6mins on and 6 mins off and if successful, could allow competitors to recover more quickly between attempts.  Unfortunately, i may need up to 40 people (!!) I understand that this may not be possible...
  Anyway will be looking for victims in the next few months or so and need as many as possible...

  Nige

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#4 Font 8a
February 15, 2005, 08:44:18 pm
You've probably thought of this, but I rate doing easier problems.  On there own, attempts at a hard move don't give you (me anyway) enough mileage to flush out the pump or `power toxins' or to flush in oxygen.  You already have a not bad method of recovering which you can use if you tap into your stamina a bit, basically by doing some climbing instead of just trying/failing exclusively.  
I can climb font 7a when it's easy enough, are there any 8as easy enough for me to climb too?

dave

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#5 Font 8a
February 15, 2005, 09:55:31 pm
i recon it'll be well over 100 for the uk, well well over.

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#6 Font 8a
February 15, 2005, 10:12:37 pm
Does this involve the use of an EMG machine?

Pantontino

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#7 Font 8a
February 15, 2005, 10:57:30 pm
"i recon it'll be well over 100 for the uk, well well over."

Okay lets bet on it. I say less than 100, you say more.

The loser has to pay for all the winner's beers on Saturday night at the Irish bouldering meet (could be expensive!!!)

Start that list rolling:

John Welford
John Gaskins
Ben Moon
Jerry Moffatt
Malcolm Smith
Andy Earl
Gaz Parry
Ian Vickers
Dave MaCleod
Paul Savage
Darren Stephenson
Steve Dunning
Dave Buchanan
Tim Clifford
Mat Birch
Rupert Davies
Stu Littlefair
...etc

(including the Welsh lot, that's 29 so far...only another 71 to go.)

And remember kids, The Joker don't count, it's only 7b+ these days.

dave

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#8 Font 8a
February 15, 2005, 11:16:43 pm
I'm well into that wager, especially since i'm not going to the irish thing.

add to your list:

stu cameron?
ron fawcett
that garland-taylor guy
travers
strong lass
bransby
gaskins
cassidy
murphy (still supposedly counts as UK)
lovejoy
andy harris
westie? he must have
nik jennings
zaff? he must have too
fitzpatrick?
mo
chris graham
croxall
dunne
sean myles?
gibson
greg chapman (that V11 traverse innit? at least)
.......
thats just off the top of me head, without resorting to si o-connor etc - doesn't include all those people neither you or me have ever heard of, and we're already half way ish.

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#9 Font 8a
February 15, 2005, 11:23:20 pm
Keep 'em coming. :lol:

Pantontino

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#10 Font 8a
February 15, 2005, 11:24:27 pm
Noticed a double up on Gaskins - tsk!

a dense loner

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#11 Font 8a
February 16, 2005, 08:36:09 am
westie hasn't, robbins hasn't

chris savage
keen youth
ryan pasquill
adam wood (?)
andy brown
tall kim
ric allen

SA Chris

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#12 Font 8a
February 16, 2005, 08:44:13 am
Tim Rankin
Paul Savage
Cubby?

Johnny Brown

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#13 Font 8a
February 16, 2005, 08:51:30 am
Goose creature (how has he been forgotten so far...???)
Wobblin' John Wainwright
Mick Adams
Ian Farrar
Paul Barton?

dave

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#14 Font 8a
February 16, 2005, 09:07:44 am
bitcon
crome?
stewart watson
robin barker
plus i think percy may have accidentally mentioned in a thread that he had done 8a
ditto simpson - i heard somewhere he'd done superman.

probably not too wise to go on whats on 8a.nu though , some very dodgy 8as being claimed!

only 32 to go-ish. must be loads of people none of us have heard about.

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#15 Font 8a
February 16, 2005, 09:11:46 am
justin critchlovesit
quentin

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#16 Font 8a
February 16, 2005, 09:13:17 am
i have.

a dense loner

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#17 Font 8a
February 16, 2005, 09:15:24 am
you forgot the not on the end, good job you don't use ropes

dave

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#18 Font 8a
February 16, 2005, 09:19:12 am
what about andi turnip?
andy banks
jason myres

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#19 Font 8a
February 16, 2005, 09:26:11 am
ok staminaband is 8a so that means cowboy hat, and tom briggs. nic sellers must have. zippy? think he said he had. andy swann?

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#20 Font 8a
February 16, 2005, 09:27:19 am
martin smith the beast of bingley.

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#21 Font 8a
February 16, 2005, 09:27:20 am
Tony Mitchell,
Burley?

dave

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#22 Font 8a
February 16, 2005, 09:32:50 am
what about irish si? must have been some V11s dropping in the states.

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#23 Font 8a
February 16, 2005, 09:33:23 am
Mr Burns, for Art of self destruction woodwell? (going off his lovely R+R profile).

Nick Clements?

Nigel?

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#24 Font 8a
February 16, 2005, 09:35:55 am
Me and richie p did this in 99 for an article and there really wasn't that many. I'm sure we missed out loads but still, the list (past and present) was relatively small. I would say its grown massively since then and i'd put my money on over 100 (if we include people that have previously climbed 8a - s cameron etc). If it was only present, then i'm not so sure.

I can't think of anyone else that isn't listed above (probably shows my lack of mates rather than anything else!)

 

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