[Gee24]

There are a serie of eliminate problems at Dragons Den, starting at Font 6b+, moving upto 7a+ I think. But for the life of me i couldn't work out the start to most of these problems on that section of the wall, any advice?

The direct finger crack with sitting start just to the right of Dragons Den seemed massively stiff for the grade, I don't think I;ve grunted like that for a long time...either i was on the wrong problem or i had my eyes closed, but the 'bonus mono move' eluded both me and my friend...anyone care to comment?

Ta,

G

[uptown]

Tough they are too - Binjay'll give you the beta when next online.

[Bubba]

Have you checked the article here:

http://ukbouldering.com/wharn01.htm

[Bonjoy]

It's also in the new guide. Which probs are you unsure about?

[Bonjoy]

Here's some old (2002) pics of Dragon's Den area at Wharncliffe

Jorge 7b

Jellyeyes (the proper way dynoing with the aid of a super poor crimp) 7b+

Jellyeyes

The Parson's Finch 7a+

Curvaceous 7a+

Curvaceous

Nez eyeballing Curvaceous

Jellyeyes

[Gee24]

I couldn't find the 'mono' move on the V4 Ogilvie's Direct problem, and was fucking stiff, my mate flashed a few of the other 7a problems and we had to work this one the most, but perhaps it was just the combination of bouldereres and cracks...

the start of the problem was the eliminates on the dragons den wall, namely, Jorge and Jorge jnr, there seems very little for your feet, maybe a very accurate pocket-smear type thing, do you lay away on the hold out to the left, then move out right dynamically?

just below this section down the hill about 8mtrs, theres a green slab with a possibilty of a sit-down start and then a mantel onto it. Has this been tried at all?

[Bonjoy]

Ogilvie's uses a right hand mono in the crack but can be done without it. Which 7a's did your mate flash?

 For Jorge- start sharing break (visible at knee level on pic), reach up to left hand layaway (the one i'm holding in the pic), hike right foot up on poor smear close to arete(visible just under my left foot), launch for the top (as pictured). The variation going right from the start to the slopey shelf is about 6a/6b.
 The up problem on the green slab was done by Jimmy Merryman. Rob Smith was trying a R-L trav of this block but never completed it. It looked very clean last time I looked at it.