[Percy B]

Jason called his problem (now dubbed Spare Rib by Jerry) Brutal Arete. Its a pity he didn't mention this to me prior to me writing a bit about it for OTE (which should appear at some point soon). Anyway, its still the best V8+ in the Peak, but the height and difficulty coupled with the hidden nature of the butress its on should protect the rock from damage from dick-heads who have no respect for the grit :cry:

Crag x as you refer to it is a very special place, first discovered by the late Tom Proctor and Martin Boysen a long time ago (25/30 years?) It has been visited by several inquisitive folks over the years (e.g; Al Williams, Martin Veale, etc.) and does have an access problem so will remain in obscurity, known only to those who have found it - and we're not telling so don't bother asking OK? None of the problems or routes done here have been recorded anywhere and hopefully this situation will remain. As Mike says, its not a new plantation. In fact its not worth fretting about at all, and will probably be wet all but 3 months of the year, and then it will be too hot and midgy! I do know of some other new grit areas, but until land ownership changes and its less likely to get shot for climbing there, I'm keeping Shtumm! :wink:

[james]

Thats weird, I could have sworn it was called Vice Man :? .  Are we talking about the same problem, the one that goes up the center of the wall.  Has the arete on its right been done?  It looks to have a huge move to get the thin crack.  
Your problems below look good.  Does the big arete start from sitting or standing?
Cheers

James

[Percy B]

Think its the same problem we're on about - its had several names attached, because its had several different first ascentionisits! At least three folks I know of have claimed a first ascent of the line, so no wonder everybodies confused. Jason told me he'd called it Brutal Arete, so I don't know who called it Vice Man.
However, the hanging arete to the right of the problem looks awesome, and also looks like a ROUTE! The top-out is the most un-appealing thing I've seen in a long time - kinda puts you off trying it a bit! :blow:
The big arete starts from sitting, using the arete and a sharp little crimp low on the left - get a good spot though, the middle section feels hard when you're tired!

[james]

I will try that arete next time I get up there, probably when this bloody rain stops .  I have not looked at the top out but it looks amazing from the ground.  The face around the corner also looks top, if only it had some holds on the top section.  
The left hand crimp on the big arete is a sharp little bugger.  Mark split his finger the first time he tried it !!  The rest looks good though.
Cheers

James

[justfunk_]

Hi james


   I will not be out today due to SHIT weather again but will be off to stanage this wknd or burb. I will drop u txt when i have decided? May meet mr dawes at stanage as he has a few projects to show me?

i will drop txt on fri night  . .. . . . That way i will be able to tell you better if it is sat or sun we will be at stan.

As for me its of to our lovely private wall/woody . The hayloft . Its a bloody powerhouse n half.    Its in buxton if your passing?

[james]

Stanage would be good.  I need to get back on Dannys Problem now I know what grade it is.  I am realy up for Rons slab.  I have had a quick play on it before and found the start nails, well, what do you expect for 7a/b .  
Have you done Big Air?  I am in two minds weather to try it or not.  If you miss the pocket, what is the fall like?
Cheers

James

[Nigel]

The fall from the jump is probably nothing, just fill the gap with a rucksack and stick your mat on top - bomber! If you get stuck at the pocket just jump back.

If you are hoping that Danny's problem is 8a then you might not be in luck, word is 7c, and yes, that is the proper way (start matched on ledge). Seems fair to me, although I'll admit I've never tried it!

One last thing - why does the Dawes always spout huge English tech grades? I like him as much as the next man, and I am vaguely acquainted with him, but what's the score?! Ron's Slab (I presume you mean the one L of Crescent Arete) is nowhere near 7b, 7a perhaps. You think that's bad, he once told me that his "thumb-sprag" beta on Smiling Buttress was English 8a!!!! If such a grade exists then its only on one problem, at Fairy Steps...

[dave]

Sorry to drag the subject back to hardcore bouldering photos, but heres one i came across i thought everyone should see..... every indoor wall should have one.

Get ready to scroll fast.....
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[Bubba]

You're a gratuitously sexist pig Dave, and you should be ashamed of yourself for posting such demeaning filth.

Actually, I was going to post a link to that one on the CT thread about whether Lynn Hill is the best looking female climber (!? .... :D but thought better of it.

[dave]

I would say Lynn Hill is the best looking female climber to have climbed the Nose free.

[Bubba]

Actually, I was going to post a link to that one on the CT thread about whether Lynn Hill is the best looking female climber

Someone beat me to it!!

[Bubba]

[Greg C]

[/img]

[Bubba]

Hmmm....not sure what you had in mind there Greg!

[toni]

Hey, very good pictures.
See at www.toscoclimb.it, I've placed the beautiful women in the homepage.

How can I send you a pic of one of my friends, Mauro Calibani?

Ciao, Toni

[Bubba]

That's a great photo, isn't it?

Better than all that Stone Nudes stuff anyway....

Toni, you can send a photo either from the photo upload form or just email it to us at one of the addresses on the contact page.

Do you know if the Meschia ban is going to be permanent?

[toni]

At the moment Meschia is closed.
In the next days my other site, www.onemove.it that I realized with Mauro (Calibani) will come online again (we've got a lot of problems with our server) and we'll explain again why Meschia was forbidden by the owner.

Toni

[Bubba]

[dave]

Nice shorts :shock:

[Johnny Brown]

Fuck me is that a topless woman or did he fall in the hot wash!!!!!! :shock:
Wonder what Normski would have said about that?

[Bubba]

I'm ashamed to say that I sometimes used to climb in such attire back in the 80's - many a tourist was repelled when I unleashed my thighs of thunder.

Still not as bad as my candy striped white and pink Troll rock-bottoms mind.

The 80's was a bad time for outdoor fashion. Or any fashion come to think of it.