[dave k]

A few questions

Has anyone done Brads arete using just the arete and the sloper out right(i.e. without the little holds out left). It seems like the more obvious line and would be a worthwhile addition. Its actually the way I was trying it for ages, b4 I was given the Beta using the holds out left.

Also what is going on with the boulder up and right from Brads arete. Can`t remember the name of the problem on it. There is one with a low start using an undercling given as B9 project in guide. Thats is Shroom. And another from a low start to the right. Using a sloping layoff ledge. Both seem desperate.

Oh yes- whats going on with the cheat stones beneath Autumn. They get bigger each time I visit. I can just about reach the start crimp(s) without them so would not feel justified claiming the tick having used them. Although I reckon it would make both Autumn and the direct problem easier with them. How did Jerry do them? How tall is he for that matter?

[Bonjoy]

Shroom is the roof left of the tufa with the very unhelpful pocket. There are two probs going from the low sidepull to the right, one goes direct via long reach and small shallow pockets on pinchy feature(not sure if this is still a project althought the stand start version was done years ago), the other goes left into the easy tufa problem, no idea gradewise. Right again is the slopey diagonal edge, the prob using this goes direct or more easily by using hold on the left about 7a and 7a+ respectively I thought.
 Jerry is tall. Most people I know who've done Autumn get edge whilst stood on rock/stacked pads, step right foot on and jump leftwards (ie full french start). Have seen one (v.tall)lad pull on to rock first and then jump(this is very much harder for those of average stature to do than the french start).

[Paz]

Is Autumn the one there was a photo of Jerry on in OTE wearing those spectacular trousers?

[Johnny Brown]

yeah. Re: how tall? - tall enough to pull on to WSS with the crimp and second side pull

[dave]

one goes direct via long reach and small shallow pockets on pinchy feature(not sure if this is still a project althought the stand start version was done years ago)

at least jimbo and I have done this from the low holds - dyno from there to top past the pockets/pinch. bout 7b, excellent.

brads arete without the holds on the left just sounds like any other eliminate really, can't see how it is the more obvious line.

[Ru]

Peak Trivia:

Remember how Tomas Willenberg did the sitter to Brad's arete and gave it 8a, and how we all laughed when it turned out to be 7b? Rumour has it that when Tomas first climbed it he climbed on the right side of the arete all the way, without any of the holds/footholds on the left.

If you try it this way the original grade is not as far out as it once seemed...

[dave k]

It is a completely different and powerful problem when you stay on the right. Much harder than when you reach through for those little holds out left. The sit start makes no difference though.

What grade does Brads arete LHS all the way get. Thats probably easier than the original?

[dave k]

Ru- what grade did you put in the new guide for the direct start to Autumn? no cheat stones allowed ofcourse so rather height dependant. But I am only 5'9.

[a dense loner]

i didn't laugh when TW claimed 8a for brad's. all due to body size n shape you see. prob harder for the tall. let's not forget that grading is for an average man, height, weight etc sorry if any women are offended but this is true