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Dense, jim, and Fiend's grand day out (Read 7640 times)

cofe

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Dense, jim, and Fiend's grand day out
December 06, 2004, 04:54:07 pm
just clocked dense has logged in. how was it then buoys?

RopeBoy

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#1 Dense, jim, and Fiend's grand day out
December 06, 2004, 10:05:47 pm
Oddly quiet.

J

a dense loner

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#2 Dense, jim, and Fiend's grand day out
December 07, 2004, 12:06:09 am
that wasn't me. must have been my sis accessing the interweb. i'll wait til i come online to tell you

a dense loner

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#3 Dense, jim, and Fiend's grand day out
December 07, 2004, 06:48:25 am
there where no big grades goin around. just a lot of quality climbin

dave

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#4 Dense, jim, and Fiend's grand day out
December 07, 2004, 08:59:41 am
any good photos? Fiend tick any e-points?

JR

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#5 Dense, jim, and Fiend's grand day out
December 07, 2004, 09:44:35 am
E0 + E0 = 0 E points

Jim

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#6 Dense, jim, and Fiend's grand day out
December 07, 2004, 10:41:41 am
Got some good photo's (I think). Will try and get them up after I've cleaned out the car and shit.
Word

dave

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#7 Dense, jim, and Fiend's grand day out
December 07, 2004, 10:43:25 am
Quote from: "Jim"
after I've cleaned out the car and shit.
Word


Best go for your shit first, theres no point holding it in unduly.

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#8 Dense, jim, and Fiend's grand day out
December 07, 2004, 03:54:47 pm
my bad self on crazy horse



Fiendus-Maximus on L'Oblique



Going for the top on Jet Set



Some ugly bloke on Gravitron


Bonjoy

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#9 Dense, jim, and Fiend's grand day out
December 07, 2004, 04:19:36 pm
Did that Crazy HORSE beta work? I found a cunning kneebar to hand in the crack worked a treat, didn't have to use the shite slopers out right at all. Did you try Sitting Bull whilst in that area?

cofe

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#10 Dense, jim, and Fiend's grand day out
December 07, 2004, 04:21:35 pm
where are the shots of dense????

Jim

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#11 Dense, jim, and Fiend's grand day out
December 07, 2004, 04:25:45 pm
I would have done crazy horse 3rd go If I hadn't of forgotten about the big foothold for the easy top bit. by the time I realised this tho I was out of beef. I just slapped all the way up the arete with left hand and sing crap sloper for right. Dense did it by this method as well. Just watching some realtime vids on bleau.info, them boys is doing it a completely different way, matching the arete with right hand and coming over with left to top of arete b4 slapping the top.

dave

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#12 Dense, jim, and Fiend's grand day out
December 07, 2004, 04:27:28 pm
i see fiend trying t blend in with the locals there with the stripey jumper - nice.  !

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#13 Dense, jim, and Fiend's grand day out
December 07, 2004, 04:29:50 pm
not just the clothing, snails and steak tartar for food an'all

Bonjoy

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#14 Dense, jim, and Fiend's grand day out
December 07, 2004, 04:30:32 pm
I walked hands up the arete of crack then popped up and right for big sloper. A quality problem. Did you use the crossed leg (RF heel hook, left toe smear in the roof) beta to slap out to the crack a la 7's n 8s picture, man that's a bo move!

a dense loner

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#15 Dense, jim, and Fiend's grand day out
December 07, 2004, 07:31:53 pm
yeah quality prob. i found that the huge tick marks for the heel were in totally the wrong place tho. din't try sitting bull, wanted to but got waylaid. a few probs looked awesome there that weren't in the mighty tome. an overhanging groove, stunning line, sitter one maybe 2 moves up to big pocket, any ideas? one overhangin block start matched n large sidepull with heel on, big throw right to big sloper then couple of slopers to top out, any ideas?

Bubba

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#16 Dense, jim, and Fiend's grand day out
December 07, 2004, 08:48:15 pm
Quote from: "Jim"
...steak tartar for food an'all


See http://fray.com/drugs/worm/

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#17 Dense, jim, and Fiend's grand day out
December 07, 2004, 09:00:34 pm
Big numbers going around...

Amount of time the lads spent talking bollox: The whole 96 hours.

Cost of petrol in Jim's car: £485 / €710

Amount of time dense spent asleep: 55 hours inc. catnaps.

Total number of obscenities Jim bellowed on Crazy Horse, 7b prow, and some other roof thing: 208

Number of slashes dense took per day: 31 average.

Number of excellent photo opportunities missed: 175

...those are some pretty big numbers =).

It was very cool indeed. Good weather, the logistics worked out fine (quite a journey tho), good and amusing company, Font IS as good as it was hyped to be, lovely setting, inspiring lines, great climbing, so much to go at. Only problems were polish in some areas, a bit of a late start on the weekend, and a mediocre curry one night. Overall a great trip and I was glad to have gone.

Quote
Fiend tick any e-points?

Ho ho. I'll have you know I'm capable of bouldering normally, with a beanie and mat and all....=P. Although that twat du cul du chien thing Jim was trying to get me on looked about E4, thankfully I couldn't even get the weird heelhook to progress.

Quote
i see fiend trying t blend in with the locals there with the stripey jumper - nice. !

Thank you! Glad the effort got noticed lol.

BTW I should point out that I did neither of those problems although got very close after 3 goes each, and felt plenty happy enough with that under the circumstances (those circumstances being running around like a dog with 9 dicks (it went up a dick a day) trying everything).

dave

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#18 Dense, jim, and Fiend's grand day out
December 08, 2004, 09:25:02 am
Quote from: "a dense loner"
an overhanging groove, stunning line, sitter one maybe 2 moves up to big pocket, any ideas?


if its wha ti thing you're on about (sitter?) then its that chipped 7a little groove thing.

dave

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#19 Dense, jim, and Fiend's grand day out
December 08, 2004, 09:27:49 am
Quote from: "Fiend"
a dick a day


.....keeps the doctor away?

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#20 Dense, jim, and Fiend's grand day out
December 08, 2004, 09:45:23 am
Quote
.....keeps the doctor away?

Seemed to work for the lads....mmm so glad I got the single bunk. Anyway...



Fiend being irresistably drawn to another bumbly slab.


Jim on/off that cool overhanging groove dense is on about.

cofe

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#21 Dense, jim, and Fiend's grand day out
December 08, 2004, 09:51:24 am
that top arete is bo. nice one.

Bonjoy

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#22 Dense, jim, and Fiend's grand day out
December 08, 2004, 10:02:04 am
Isn't it L'Angle Bens at Isatis?

dave

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#23 Dense, jim, and Fiend's grand day out
December 08, 2004, 10:04:25 am
angle bens is that arete but climbed on the RHS, 7a+ and looks desperatley technical.

dom

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#24 Dense, jim, and Fiend's grand day out
December 08, 2004, 03:16:18 pm
Quote
Cost of petrol in Jim's car: £485 / €710


 :shock:  shit, is that for real.  i'm planning on driving down from scotland, am i looking at it costing something like that, might have to re-think

 

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