[Br0mley]

Two new problems I did at Caley back in October of 2023, both on the Smooth Wall boulder, on the left hand side if you're facing Smooth Wall looking up the hill.

Big Brain - 6Cish - To the left of Smooth Arete is a line of crimps and edges underneath a sloping lip. From a sitting start work your way up the crimps to a small edge for the left hand and a good edge for the right hand, from here pass the roof and mantel the top.

Smooth Brain - f6B+ - The stand start of Big Brain, go's from the LH edge and good RH. Grades are a guess, don't think anyone has repeated either since they've been done. Likely to be (much) harder for the short.

Vid of the 6C here

There is a much much harder unclimbed line to the left of these problems which I had a look at but didn't get done.

UKC links for both below
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/caley_crags-540/big_brain-707944
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/caley_crags-540/smooth_brain-707945

[36chambers]

Good work, I've eyed up the line to the left plenty of times and can't fathom a way up it (or even a way to pull on), which is a shame as it's such an inviting roof.

With regards to your new climbs, I don't know if you have a copy of the Cameron-Duff Yorkshire grit guidebook, but I think they are the same as Boulder 9 Problem 2 V6. Which is described as "SD as low as possible. Use thin edge, move L, then mantel over the roof" and is marked just left of the arete in the aerial topo.

 https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/caley_crags-540/cd_9_problem_2-186022

[Br0mley]

Yeah the line to the left looked and felt borderline impossible.

Ah bugger, I'd been using the Yorkshire Gritstone Volume 1 guide by the YMC so wasn't aware it'd been done already... I'd argue it's a slightly more memorable name than "CD 9 Problem 2" at least.

[Bradders]

Alas if only we had a UKC crag moderator for Caley who could prevent this sort of thing