I'm not sure it's such a rare view as you say but I've no real idea.
Quote from: Wellsy on May 10, 2024, 10:57:20 amI'm not sure it's such a rare view as you say but I've no real idea.Of the hundreds of years of collective bouldering experience in here, I don't think you’ll find a single person who would support this view. If you think it’s not rare then I’d suggest it must be in a subset of folk you climb with.
Is that E6 6b on the "West Side Story is E4" grading scale or the "West Side Story is E6" grading scale
If anything to me it feels like with grit technique is 90% of the difficulty, a lot of stuff is tekkers and then feels piss when you refine it so much you flow on the send go.
Since the "West Side Story is E6" grading scale was invented last week, I was referring the decades-old established scale
a bit harder than White Wand.
QuoteIf anything to me it feels like with grit technique is 90% of the difficulty, a lot of stuff is tekkers and then feels piss when you refine it so much you flow on the send go. I used to think that, but I was using power more than I thought. Since passing 40 my technique genuinely seems to be still improving, but my power is waning distressingly fast, as evidenced by problems like Brad Pit slipping from my repertoire. Sad times.I do remember a series of training articles in OTE in the mid-nineties, in which the jist was that by the secret to all climbing was getting stronger. Not only would the moves get easier, you'd also gain stamina as who gets pumped on easy moves? At the time I assumed 'stronger' was a synonym for 'better', but in hindsight I realised they just meant stronger.QuoteSince the "West Side Story is E6" grading scale was invented last week, I was referring the decades-old established scale
And yes, I really do think that if you took the crux “move” off the headwall on Positron or the crux of Right Wall and transferred it to a bouldering wall that it might be pushing 4b if you were being optimistic.
Typically what the UK tech grade really is is how hard the hardest move feels in the context of the route.
the grade of "the hardest move" being a ridiculous nonsense. Which move? A hand movement? A foot movement? A sequence of movement? – Oh wait – that’s what we use Font grades for… (And yes, that's the bit that JB was mocking previously, but it doesn't remove the absurdity of pretending you're grading the hardest move).
Which is my beef with JB's version of grading things like WSS,
It is too late in the day to change the entire grading system for all grades to an E grade and a French or Font grade, and it’s unnecessary
what I'm trying to do, is persuade a few people that it actually is possible to do what the eGraders tried to do but didn't get right.
Quote from: teestub on May 10, 2024, 11:28:10 amQuote from: Wellsy on May 10, 2024, 10:57:20 amI'm not sure it's such a rare view as you say but I've no real idea.Of the hundreds of years of collective bouldering experience in here, I don't think you’ll find a single person who would support this view. If you think it’s not rare then I’d suggest it must be in a subset of folk you climb with. I suspect the subset that Wellsy climbs with is both larger and more active than the knowledgeable old grumblies might expect. I and I would suspect there's perhaps less intermixing too...Different Venn's, innit.?
Without making a political analogy, being larger and more active doesn’t make something any more right 😆
"clearly this is flat out BONKERS" - JB
"you get to appear on youtube in a lab coat" - JB
"As Tom has so neatly illustrated, it's not my version, it's THE version" - JB
"eGrader 2.0!!! This time we get it right!" - JB
"I've not really been able to work out what is actually at stake in this thread" - Andy Popp
That has been the opinion given to me by lots of experienced boulderers. I personally think it should and it's stupid if it doesn't, and worse than that it would appear to apply in some cases and not in others, but it's definitely not unusual to hear. In fact the first people who took me outside said, the grade is about physical difficulty, not technical demand.
Many people I know find bouldering grades very frustrating, as an observation, for various reasons.
"I have no real idea about what's actually being debated here." -Andy Popp